No 1, 2023

Materials science

M. A. Egorova, A. A. Kozlov, Ya. S. Tomashevich
Development of mathematical models and methods for prediction of relaxation processes of polymeric textile materials
DOI: 10.46418/0021–3489_2023_59_01_01
The issues of development of mathematical models and methods for predicting the relaxation processes of polymeric textile materials are considered. The use of the optimality criterion for mathematical modeling of viscoelasticity makes it possible to control the degree of accuracy in determining relaxation characteristics and the degree of reliability in predicting relaxation processes. The proposed methods make it possible to solve problems of a technological orientation in the selection of materials with optimal relaxation characteristics from the point of view of operational properties.
Keywords: mathematical modeling, polymeric textile materials, deformation properties, relaxation processes, operational processes

S. Ballyev, A. V. Ostrovskaya, F. S. Sharifullin, E. F. Voznesensky, N. V. Tikhonova, A. K. Khairullin
Comparative analysis of the physical properties of the bakhtaryan split and camel skin dermis
DOI: 10.46418/0021–3489_2023_59_01_02
The article presents the results of a comparative study of porosity and microscopy of the dermis and bahtar split from camel skins. The results of the research are presented, it is concluded that split leather has a more developed porous structure in comparison with the dermis from camel skins, which is due to the morphological structure of natural materials, which determines not only aesthetic, but also their physical and mechanical properties.
Keywords: dermis, camel skin, split, bakhtarian split, porosity, microscopy, pores, pore sizes

E. A. Pankova, G. R. Rakhmatullina, O. V. Fukina
Investigation of the leather materials microstructure modified with high-frequency plasma for personal protective equipment production
DOI: 10.46418/0021–3489_2023_59_01_03
The effect of high-frequency plasma modification was investigated on changes in the leather materials microstructure with the chrome tanning from cattle hides. The effects of high-frequency plasma modification at the level of the microstructure of the material are shown and justified, which provides a significant improvement in the quality of the material as a whole.
Keywords: leather materials from cattle hides of chrome tanning method for personal protective equipment, RF plasma of low pressure, porosity, microstructure, collagen fibers

I. A. Gadzhibekov
Characteristics of shepherd and fur raw raw Dagestan
DOI: 10.46418/0021–3489_2023_59_01_04
The article describes the characteristics of the Dagestan sheepskin and fur coat raw materials, depending on the breed and regional origin. The features of the Romanov, Russian, Mongolian and steppe sheepskin coats, the properties of the hairline and leather tissue are given. The breeds of sheep from which coat sheepskins are obtained are described.
Keywords: sheep breeding, raw sheepskin coats, Dagestan, properties of hairline and leather tissue, sheepskin contours

Computer simulation and design automation

S. V. Kiselev
Computational prediction of deformation processes of polymer textile materials
DOI: 10.46418/0021–3489_2023_59_01_05
Methods for computational prediction of deformation processes in polymeric textile materials based on mathematical modeling of these processes are considered. This forecasting makes it possible to solve the problem of a comparative analysis of the properties of materials, as well as to investigate the relationship between the properties of materials and their structure.
Keywords: computer prediction, mathematical modeling, polymeric materials, deformation properties, relaxation, creep

V. V. Golovina, V. I. Wagner
Device for studying polymer materials in dynamic of deformation mode
DOI: 10.46418/0021–3489_2023_59_01_06
The article proposed a device designed for the study of polymer materials in both static and dynamic modes of deformation. In this device, the unit has been upgraded, with the help of which longitudinal vibrations are excited in the sample, and a new method of oscillation recording has also been applied. The use of the proposed device makes it possibilities of materials research in dynamic modes. The scheme of the proposed device is given. Variants of the main modes of research using the device are considered.
Keywords: polymer textile materials, deformation processes, dynamic mode, creep, longitudinal low-amplitude vibrations

A. A. Kozlov
Variant of mathematical modeling of mechanical processes of textile materials
DOI: 10.46418/0021–3489_2023_59_01_07
A variant of mathematical modeling of mechanical processes of polymeric textile materials is proposed, on the basis of which deformation processes of varying complexity are predicted — from simple relaxation and simple creep processes to complex deformation-recovery processes and reverse relaxation processes with alternating loading and unloading.
Keywords: mathematical modeling, polymeric textile materials, deformation properties, relaxation processes, operational processes

Automation and control of technological processes and production

N. V. Pereborova
Quality management of polymeric textile materials
DOI: 10.46418/0021–3489_2023_59_01_08
The article deals with the issues of quality management of polymeric textile materials, which is based on the quality control of functional properties. Improving the quality of textile materials is supposed to be carried out on the basis of mathematical modeling and system analysis of these properties.
Keywords: polymeric textile materials, quality control, mathematical modeling, system analysis, increasing the competitiveness of products

Sh. R. Khurramov, K. K. Turgunov, K. Yu. Aliboev
Filtration rates in the process of roller squeezing of leather
DOI: 10.46418/0021–3489_2023_59_01_09
Analytical dependencies that describe the patterns of changes in filtration rates in the squeezing area are determined. It was found that the fluid filtration rate along the abscissa at the boundaries of the compression zone is zero, and inside the zone, it takes negative values. It was found that the fluid filtration rates along the ordinate axis and the polar angle are equal to zero at the beginning of the compression zone, increase to a maximum at one point lying on the line of centers, and in the deformation recovery zone depend on the angle that determines the position of the point where the fluid changes direction.
Keywords: roll squeezing, fibrous material, liquid filtration, filtration rate, squeezing area

O. E. Gavrilova, L. L. Nikitina, N. V. Tikhonova
About the possibility of using modular customization to improve the structure of the assortment of light industry enterprises
DOI: 10.46418/0021–3489_2023_59_01_10
At the present stage of the development of industrial production, the issue of improving the structure of the assortment of enterprises has been and remains relevant to ensure their ability to maintain demand for products and withstand competition with similar enterprises. A competent choice of the target audience and the range of products, reduction of the development time of design documentation at the stages of industrial design and production time increases the competitiveness of light industry enterprises. The modern system of industrial of a variety of fashionable products, rapid updating of the range of products in demand by the consumer. Requirements and preferences of separate individuals, rather than a group of consumers, become a guideline in the design of the product range, which is due to the great popularity of customized products that are in high demand, especially among young people. Enterprises implementing the principle of mass customization in the organization of production expand their product ranges or increase the number of product functions. The article discusses the directions of implementation of the custom approach in the design of the assortment of sewing enterprises, an example of its implementation of modular customization in the development of an assortment of women’s sportswear is given.
Keywords: customization, customized product, competitiveness, models, clothing, design

N. V. Pereborova, V. I. Wagner, Ya. S. Tomashevich
Methods for increasing the quality and competitiveness of textile products
DOI: 10.46418/0021–3489_2023_59_01_11
The key problems of improving the quality and competitiveness of textile products are considered. Factors are noted that objectively predetermine the need for state participation in the formation and implementation of innovative programs in traditional industries, which include the textile and light industries. The importance of state support for the initial phases of innovation processes — scientific, design, technological — is emphasized. The role of such an innovative resource as staffing is noted. The expediency and potential possibility of increasing the role of universities as centers for the development of scientific research on the problems of the industry and the training of highly qualified personnel capable of ensuring the implementation of innovative processes at all stages — from scientific ideas to their commercialization.
Keywords: textile and light industry, innovations, competitiveness, management, organization of production

System analysis, information management and processing, statistics

A. S. Gorshkov, N. V. Pereborova, D. S. Vavilov, O. B. Prishchepenok, P. P. Rymkevich
Structural-rheological model of a synthetic thread with a spiral elastic-viscous element
DOI: 10.46418/0021–3489_2023_59_01_12
The article presents the results of numerical modeling. It is shown that most of the existing mechanical models cannot describe a number of phenomena that manifest themselves during the dynamic deformation of synthetic yarns based on carbonic and heterocyclic aramids. In particular, they cannot describe the beating phenomenon observed for these materials in a narrow voltage range in the free oscillation mode. A spiral elastic-viscous element was added to proposed structural-rheological model of a synthetic thread along with a spring and a damper. The introduction of a new structural element into the model allowed not only to obtain a second-order equation, but also to quantitatively describe the phenomenon under consideration.
Keywords: polymers, synthetic filaments, aramid, rheological models, Maxwell model, Kelvin-Feucht model, dynamic deformation modes, free oscillations, amplitude modulations

A. G. Makarov, A. V. Demidov, N. V. Pereborova
Calculation of the activation energy of relaxation and deformation processes of polymeric textile materials
DOI: 10.46418/0021–3489_2023_59_01_13
The article considers a method for calculating the activation energy of relaxation and deformation processes of polymeric textile materials. This method is based on mathematical modeling of relaxation processes and creep processes of these materials.
Keywords: activation energy, relaxation, creep, viscoelasticity, deformation

Technology of production of textile and light industry products

A. V. Abramov, E. Ya. Surzhenko, A. O. Nazriev; M. V. Rodicheva
Development of a climatic chamber for the study of thermal processes in the cyber-physical system «man — clothing — environment»
DOI: 10.46418/0021–3489_2023_59_01_14
A climatic chamber is proposed for studying heat and mass transfer in the system «person — clothing — environment» at elevated temperatures. A schematic diagram of the chamber was drawn up, hardware for the formation of the thermal regime, measurement of the parameters of the air environment and the thermal state of the human body was justified. A SCADA system has been developed to maintain the operating mode in the chamber and automate the experiment. Numerical modeling of the state of the air environment in the chamber was carried out, measurement schemes were substantiated.
Keywords: cyber-physical system «person — clothing — environment», elevated temperatures, climatic chamber, heat and mass transfer, SCADA system, air environment, mathematical modeling

Ya. I. Bulanov, N. G. Moshkalo, A. V. Kurdenkova, Yu. S. Shustov, D. К. Malyuga
Development of a method for evaluation and modular installation for determining the load in cutting and force of punching of armored packages from para-aramid fabrics under dynamic conditions
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2023_59_01_15
In this work, an evaluation technique and a modular installation for determining the cutting load and the puncture force of armored packs made of para-aramid fabrics under dynamic conditions have been developed. Modularity of the installation means that you can easily change the clamp (for a knife, pike or indenter), change the location of the platforms, and also replace the tissue clamp on the turntable. The platform has a tilt angle of 30, 45, 60 and 90 degrees. Due to its simplicity, the installation is easily modified.
Keywords: para-aramid fabrics, puncture force, cutting load, modular installation, dynamic test conditions, test procedure

V. V. Arkhalova
Application of integrated standardization in the development of an organization’s standard on women’s knitted jumper
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2023_59_01_16
The objects of standardization of the knitted product-jumper for women are investigated. The analysis of the characteristics of yarn, knitwear and products included in the complex for the standardization of the finished product is carried out.
Keywords: standardization, standard of organization (STO), indicators of properties of yarn,knitwear; technical requirements, consumer properties of the finished product

S. V. Frolov, A. V. Kurdenkova, Yu. S. Shustov, Ya. I. Bulanov
Analysis of modern textile materials used for the manufacture of special clothing to protect against thermal risks of electric arc
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2023_59_01_17
The problems of safety during work at substations are considered. An ergonomic and reliable material is offered for the manufacture of special clothing to protect against thermal risks of an electric arc. These materials are widely used in the production of special clothing to protect against dangerous thermal factors.
Keywords: electric arc, thermal risks, insulation distance, labor protection, power line,comparison of materials, level of protection, special clothing

V. V. Khammatova, R. F. Gainutdinov, N. S. Klimova, V. I. Wagner
Improving the quality of leather materials for workwear through the application of plasma treatment
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2023_59_01_18
The paper considers the process of plasma treatment of sheepskin leather material nanomodified with silver nanoparticles, which is used as a basis for bactericidal finishing of overalls for workers in the metallurgical, construction, aviation and military-industrial complex. The results of experimental studies have shown that under the combined action of a colloidal solution of silver nanoparticles on samples of leather material and nanostructuring by a flow of nonequilibrium low-temperature low-pressure plasma, there is an effect of nanomodification initiated by the plasma of the complex formation of collagen on the dermis and silver, which provides high strength and antimicrobial activity, blocks the function of microbial reproduction. Impregnation with silver nanoparticles creates a continuous film on the surface of the material, which makes it biologically stable. The use of plasma treatment leads to an increase in the tensile strength of the leather material by 26.85 % and bactericidal activity, relative to control samples.
Keywords: plasma treatment, sheepskin, overalls, silver nanoparticles

A. M. Smirnova
The method of random iterations of fractal art in the study of the morphology of the deterministic algorithm of V. Sierpinski in the sacred images of the Maltese knights Templar
DOI: 10.46 418/0021-3489_2023_59_01_19
In this paper, a study of the morphology of the deterministic algorithm of V. Sierpinski in the sacred images of the Knights Templar of Malta in the implementation of post-non-classical methodology in the development of digital and cognitive art technologies was carried out. The result of the work carried out was the creation of cognitive metaphorical models of artistic images of design objects that improve the appearance of a person. The images of the Knights Templar of Malta made it possible to design the Malta parure.
Keywords: fractal art, Knights Templar, Order of Malta, artistic image of design objects

Technology and processing of synthetic and natural polymers and composites

Ya. I. Bulanov, N. G. Moshkalo, A. V. Kurdenkova, Yu. S. Shustov, D. К. Malyuga
Establishment of empirical laws of distribution for key quality indicators of para-aramid fabrics for armored packages with anti-cut and anti-punch properties
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2023_59_01_20
In the work, a choice was made of the determining indicators of the quality of para-aramid fabrics for armor packages with anti-cut and anti-puncture properties. On the basis of the compiled nomenclature, tests were carried out and empirical laws of distribution were established. Compliance with theoretical models was chosen based on the physical nature of the indicator by calculating various criteria: asymmetry and kurtosis, the method of probability papers, the Shapiro-Wilky test.
Keywords: para-aramid fabrics, nomenclature of defining quality indicators, expert survey, distribution law, probabilistic paper

A. M. Mikhailidi, M. V. Ivanova, K. S. Kirish, N. A. Ivanov, N. E. Kotelnikova
Production line of cellulose hydrogels: scale-up, design, and development
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2023_59_01_21
Cellulose is the most abundant natural polymer that is of particular interest for processing due to its unique properties: biodegradability, biocompatibility, and ubiquitous availability. New functional materials, including hydrogels, can be produced from cellulose. The hydrogels are super-swollen systems with a three-dimensional polymer framework. They can retain large amountof water. The hydrogels have potential for use in biomedicine, farmacy, agriculture and nanotechnology. This article presents for the first time the results of scaling-up a laboratory procedure for obtaining hydrogels from powdered cellulose by dissolving it in the N, N-dimethylacetamide/LiCl system followed by regeneration regarding requirements of a circular economy.
Keywords:scaling-up, hydrogel, N, N-dimethylacetamide/lithium chloride (DMAс/LiCl), cellulose, recuperation, circular economy

Museum studies, conservation and restoration of historical and cultural objects

A. E. Tretyakova, M. V. Pyrkova, V. V. Safonov
History and restoration of male military caftans of the 18th century
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2023_59_01_22
The props of the funds of film studios and theaters, despite their fake origin, also need to be preserved, because in addition to reuse, as they are used, each item is «overgrown» with history and becomes part of the cultural heritage. This work shows how props can follow historical fashion and what restoration methods can be used when working with kaftans depicting military uniforms from the 18th century.
Keywords: restoration of textiles, tinting, color selection, metal fittings, woolen cloth, kaftan

V. V. Laptev
Photomontage in the context of design changes of the illustrated magazine «Smena»
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2023_59_01_23
This article examines the artistic techniques of creating visual images in periodicals based on the use of photography. The research focuses on the application of photomontage in the demonstrated samples of printed publications of the Soviet Union of the post-revolutionary period. Special attention is paid to the consideration of the features of the artistic appearance of the illustrated magazine «Smena» (Moscow), which began publishing in 1924. This is a balance of textual and visual components based on a combination of graphics, photography, photomontage, as well as infographics. The result of the study was the revealed time frame of active use of avant-garde ideas in the initial period of publication of this illustrated magazine. The culmination of this takes place in 1930–1931, which was due to the cooperation of the magazine with famous Soviet designers and photo artists.
Keywords: illustrated magazine, magazine «Smena», avant-garde, magazine design, photography, photomontage, infographics

Theory and history of culture and art

O. E. Denisova
Formation and development of the Soviet modeling organization in Leningrad (1950-1970)
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2023_59_01_24
The article examines the process of creation and development of one of the first modeling organizations of the USSR — the Fashion House in Leningrad from 1950s to 1970s. The article contains the names of the employees, the logos of the organization of different years are given, and names the addresses where this organization was located in different years. This information was not systematized and published earlier. The above research is important for restoring the chronological and historical sequence of the development of the Leningrad Fashion House.
Keywords: Leningrad Fashion house, clothing design, fashion design, Soviet fashion designers, Soviet design, fashion industry

M. E. Vilchinskaya-Butenko, E. G. Shemshurenko
Photography as a tool for fixing street art
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2023_59_01_25
Street photography has been going hand in hand with graffiti and street art as an art form for decades, and in many ways it is a positive symbiosis. Since street art by its nature is a transient art form, photography can help capture a street art object before it disappears for any reason, not only perpetuating the artist’s work and his message, but also creating a base for research purposes (art history, psychological, pedagogical, sociological, etc.). The authors note the ephemeral nature of street art, forcing researchers to react quickly to the appearance of objects in the urban environment and at the same time create the «right» image for their own research purposes. The requirements for the fixation of an art object are determined, concerning both the conditions for achieving the desired effect directly during the implementation of photo fixation, and the requirements for the technical parameters of tools and software at the stage of preparation, fixation and post-process.
Keywords: street art, graffiti, photo fixation

V. L. Zhukov
Morphology and dеcor of the ethnic Asian-southeastern tradition of the kerambit system in images in Chinese culture, represented by fans of teshan, utiva — dancen
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2023_59_01_26
In general, the tense social conflict situation in the world dictates the conditions for solving problems related to the personal security of each person, from a planetary scale to the everyday individuality that the individual faces, and which is previously based on his interaction with the variety of different weapons systems that have arisen throughout the global history of mankind. Of course, each world culture created its own defense systems, while finding the most optimal hidden ways to counter aggression by force when defending against attack. The evolution of such systems chronologically had a regional ethnic character, in which the palm belongs to Asia, and above all to Japan and China, which gave civilization bright figurative achievements, especially the latter. Thanks to the fan, one of the iconic cultural and at the same time combat accessories that are part of the everyday life of the chinese, and not only them, a world trend of artistic and technical thought appeared, which found a deep decorative and functional reflection in the modern subject area of design objects in the cluster of camouflage cold weapons based on the morphology of kerambit.
Keywords: edged weapons, morphology of kerambit, design, philosophy and culture, historicism, Japan and China, fan, butterfly