№ 1, 2021
И. И. ВУЛЬФСОН (К 90-ЛЕТИЮ СО ДНЯ РОЖДЕНИЯ)
ТЕХНОЛОГИЯ МАТЕРИАЛОВ И ИЗДЕЛИЙ ТЕКСТИЛЬНОЙ И ЛЕГКОЙ ПРОМЫШЛЕННОСТИ
Переборова Н.В., Климова Н.С., Малюков Ю.А., Зурахов В.С.
Математическое моделирование деформационных и релаксационных процессов полимерной пряжи
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_01
Яковлева О.И., Сашина Е.С., Иванов О.М., Москалюк О.А.
Исследование способа получения и свойства иглопробивного нетканого материала из отходов шелкопрядения
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_02
Волков В.В., Пакулова Н.К.
К вопросу о стабилизации мощности процесса обработки волокнистой массы на кардочесальных машинах
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_03
Родичева М.В., Сурженко Е.Я., Абрамов А.В., Черненко Д.А.
Исследование влияния неравномерности воздушных прослоек в одежде на теплообмен человека с окружающей средой
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_04
Беденко В.Е., Рудин А.Е., Тропанихин И.Ю., Ерохина А.Е.
Прогнозирование эксплуатационной надежности текстильных материалов в условиях светопогодного воздействия
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_05
Баллыев С.Б.
Исследование влияния плазмы вче-разряда пониженного давления на отмочно-зольные процессы шкур верблюда
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_06
Абдул Р.А., Григорьева Е.Г.
Проектирование технологических параметров трикотажа двойных прессовых переплетений
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_07
Денисова О.И., Сурженко Е.Я.
Особенности миграции инноваций корпоративной моды во внешнюю социокультурную среду
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_08
Карабанов П.С., Скрипин В.О., Северинов А.А.
Анизотропия показателя расширения формованных деталей обуви из вспенивающихся материалов на основе эва
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_09
Васильева В.В., Логинов О.А., Рожков Н.Н., Шихова Е.В.
Системный анализ структуры показателей качества комбинезонов для конькобежного спорта
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_10
Минязова А.Н., Красина И.В., Илюшина С.В.
Изучение физико-механических свойств трикотажных полотен
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_11
Панкова Е.А., Рахматуллина Г.Р.
Ик-фурье спектрометрические исследования мехового полуфабриката модифицированного вч плазмой в среде активных плазмообразующих газов
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_12
Пашин Е.Л., Орлов А.В.
Метод оценки сопротивления нити скользящему изгибу
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_13
Сандина А.Е., Татаров С.В., Сорокина М.В.
Новое в проектировании эргономичных формованных кожгалантерейных изделий с использованием антропометрических данных
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_14
Спиридонова В.Г., Циркина О.Г., Петров А.В., Никифоров А.Л.
Оценка пожароопасных свойств огнезащитных текстильных материалов из натуральных волокон на основе термогравиметрических исследований
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_15
Литвинов А.М., Козлов А.А., Климова Н.С., Переборова Н.В.
Разработка методов компьютерного анализа деформационных процессов полимерных текстильных материалов
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_16
Смирнова Н.А., Лапшин В.В., Замышляева В.В., Бойко С.В., Хромеева И.А.
Автоматизированный метод определения свойств материалов при пространственном растяжении
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_17
Бигеева К.Р., Рахматуллина Г.Р., Тихонова В.П., Низамова Д.К., Ахвердиев Р.Ф.
Влияние аминомодифицированной смолы на структуру дермы шкур горбуши
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_18
Веселова С.А., Архалова В.В.
Сертификация комбинированных швейных изделий школьной группы в сдс "петербургская марка качества"
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_19
Климова Н.С., Литвинов А.М., Переборова Н.В., Киселев С.В.
Спектральная интерпретация деформационных процессов полимерных текстильных материалов
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_20
ИСКУССТВОВЕДЕНИЕ
Афанасьева А.Б., Тихонова Ю.С.
Значение вхутемаса в развитии театральной культуры в россии xx-xxi веков
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_21
Ткаченко П.М., Прозорова Е.С.
Исследование проблемы интеграции компьютерных программ в дизайне
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_22
Бурова М.Д., Рыкова Е.С.
Взрослые проблемы: детская обувь в фэшн-иллюстрации
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_23
ОРГАНИЗАЦИЯ ПРОИЗВОДСТВА
Муртазина А.Р., Гусев А.О., Костылева В.В., Разин И.Б.
Концепция использования сетевой корпоративной системы и открытых библиотек для перехода к "умному предприятию"
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_24
АВТОМАТИЗАЦИЯ И УПРАВЛЕНИЕ ТЕХНОЛОГИЧЕСКИМИ ПРОЦЕССАМИ И ПРОИЗВОДСТВАМИ
Абдувахидов М.М., Абдувахидов М.
Исследование влияния замкнутого контура внутренних усилий на изгибные колебания составных рабочих органов
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_25
No. 1, 2021
I. I. VULFSON (TO THE 90TH ANNIVERSARY FROM BIRTHDAY)
TECHNOLOGY OF MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS OF TEXTILE AND LIGHT INDUSTRY
Pereborova N.V., Klimova N.S., Malyukov Yu. A., Zurakhov V.S.
Mathematical modeling of deformation and relaxation processes of polymer yarn
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_01
Currently, numerous studies of the deformation properties of polymeric materials have been carried out, while a wide variety of textile materials and a large volume of accumulated experiments prove the need to develop new methods for analyzing the deformation properties of textile materials of complex structure and, in particular, polymer yarn, which are not given enough attention [1]-[3]. The increasing complexity of the structure of polymeric textile materials significantly affects their deformation properties, which justifies the search for new mathematical models of these properties and the use of computer methods for processing experimental information. The creation of new methods for the analysis of the mechanical properties of polymer textile materials, taking into account their complex structure, contributes to the most reliable prediction of deformation processes [5].
Keywords: polymer fibrous materials, relaxation processes, deformation processes, mathematical modeling, numerical prediction
Yakovleva O.I., Sashina E.S., Ivanov O.M., Moskalyuk O.A.
Investigation of a method for producing non-woven needled felt from silk-spinning waste
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_02
Silk waste is used for the production of needled felt. An antistatic agent has been selected for pre-treatment of silk waste in prepa- ration for carding. The physical and mechanical properties of the obtained nonwoven material have been studied.
Keywords: waste silk, anti-static treatment, nonwoven fabric, strength
Volkov V.V., Pakulova N.K.
On the issue of stabilizing the power of the fiber mass processing process on carding machines
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_03
The article deals with the issue of regulating the process of top selection during the operation of the pump feeder. At the same time, the process power and the material feed rate were selected as the control parameters, which made it possible to ensure the flow of the technological process at a given quality using a fairly simple control system.
Keywords: liquid feeder, fiber product, regulation, process power, feed rate
Rodicheva M.V., Surzhenko E. Ya., Abramov A.V., Chernenko D.A.
Investigation of the influence of non-uniformity air layers in clothing on the heat exchange of a person with the environment
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_04
The heat and mass transfer in ventilated air layers between the human body and clothing has been studied. The influence of the shape of the interlayer on the amount of heat flux from the surface of the body has been established. The possibility of regulating the thermal state of a person due to ventilation of air layers is shown.
Keywords: heterogeneous air gaps, conduction, convection, radiation, 3D scanning
Bedenko V.E., Rudin A.E., Tropanikhin I. Yu., Erokhina A.E.
Forecasting the operational reliability of textile materials under light-weather exposure
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_05
To predict the duration of the safe period of operation of a textile material, it is proposed to determine the time after which the reduction in the breaking load of the material reaches the minimum permissible normalized value for operation based on the dependence of the safety factor of the material on the duration of exposure to light. The proposed method is illustrated by examples of assessing the operational reliability of eight variants of fabrics exposed to light weather in the Rostov, Kursk and Leningrad regions.
Keywords: light-weather wear, kinetics of light-weather aging, predicting the operational reliability of textile materials
Ballyev S.B.
Study of the influence of plasma of rfc-discharge in low pressure soaker-cindery processes the skins of a camel
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_06
The paper considers the results of radio-frequency capacitive plasma treatment in the process of tanning in the production of camel skins The use of plasma processing affects the physical and chemical, aesthetic properties of raw materials, leather semi-finished products and finished skins. Radio-frequency capacitive (RFC) plasma processing in the preparatory processes of leather production allows a significant influence on the structure of the dermis of camel skins, which facilitates further processing processes.
Keywords: soaking is, liming, process, fleshing, radio-frequency discharge, plasma treatment, dermis, the skin of a camel
Abdul Rahman Ali, Grigorieva E.G.
Design of technological parameters of knitted fabrics of double press weaves
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_07
The paper is devoted to the problem of samples of knitted fabrics of weaving eraser 1 + 1, full-cardigan and half-cardigan, obtained on a flat knitting machine PVM. The technological parameters of these samples were determined using the developed program for the automated calculation of the technological parameters of knitwear using the Python programming language.
Keywords: knitwear, design, press, weave, technological parameters
Denisova O.I., Surzhenko E. Ya.
Features of migration of innovations of corporate fashion into the external sociocultural environment
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_08
The article presents the results of a study of the influence of corporate uniform aesthetics on the formation of fashion trends in costume design outside the scope of the dress code. An analysis of the regularities of the introduction and distribution of corporate designs of clothing from the standpoint of modern theories of fashion was carried out, and it was found that, in addition to the original concept of a uniform, its modified designs, reflecting the dual reaction of participants in the dress code, migrate to the external environment. At the same time, «external» consumers can synthesize their interpretations of the elements of the uniform, cyclically continuing the process of sign modification.
Keywords: fashion theory, dress code, ambivalence, aesthetics, symbolic interaction
Karabanov P.S., Skripin V.O., Severinov A.A.
Anisotropy of expansion indicator for molded footwear parts from eva-based foomable materials
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_09
The anisotropy and inhomogeneity of the expansion index of foamable sole materials based on EVA are considered. It is shown that the expansion coefficient is determined not only by the content of the blowing agent in the material and the modes of injection molding. The indicator depends on the dimensions and geometric shape and the melt flow type filling the mold. Taking into account the revealed patterns in the design of tooling and the choice of molding modes can enhance the dimensional accuracy of molded products.
Keywords: EVA based materials, expansion ratio, Expansion anisotropy, molding modes, internal stresses, degree of structuring
Vasilieva V.V., Loginov O.A., Rozhkov N.N., Shikhova E.V.
System analysis of the structure of quality indicators skating jumpsuits
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_10
One of the most knowledge-intensive processes that ensure the development of modern speed skating is the design of sports overalls for speed skaters. This complex problem includes the choice of materials with optimal performance properties, taking into account the specifics of use in the training process and competition, as well as taking into account the impact of various external factors. When designing and manufacturing, the indicators of aerodynamics, air and moisture permeability, temperature conditions and a number of other requirements must be taken into account. Also, an important role is played by quality indicators, subjectively perceived by an athlete, which can only be assessed using expert methods.
Keywords: sports overalls, SPEED skating, performance
Minyazova A.N., Krasina I.V., Ilyushina S.V.
Study of physical and mechanical properties of knitted fabrics
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_11
This paper investigates the properties of textile materials intended for workers in the agro-industrial complex. For the manufac- ture of special clothing, it is proposed to use highly efficient knitted fabrics to protect against sudden impacts by cattle. The study assessed the degree of contamination of the resulting knitted fabrics.
Keywords: knitwear, characteristics, knitting capacity, textiles, loops
Pankova E.A., Rakhmatullina G.R.
Infrared spectrometric (ftir) studies of fur semi-finished product modified by hf plasma in the medium of active plasma-forming gases
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_12
HF plasma modification of the fur semi-finished product in the medium of active plasma-forming gases leads to chemical modification of the skin tissue and hair of the fur semi-finished product, which is confirmed by the results of infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). Such plasmochemical modification of the fur material will significantly expand the possibilities of regulating its properties.
Keywords: fur semi-finished product, HF plasma, active plasma-forming gases, plasma chemical modification, nitrogen, oxygen, propane-argon, Infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR)
Pashin E.L., Orlov A.V.
Method of measuring fibers’ friction bending resistance
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_13
The friction bending is the main type of interaction between the thread and operating parts of textile machines. As such, it makes sense to use experimental methods, specifically ones based on measuring energy required to perform the friction bending. Knowing the magnitude of that energy loss it becomes possible to take into account internal friction between the components of the thread and deformations in both lengthwise and lateral deirections. Measuring the ratio of internal friction within the total is possible via comparing the energy losses caused by friction bending the thread against cylinders of various curvature. Large curvature radius results in majority of energy losses being caused by external friction, but smaller curvature radius results in increasingly large influence of internal friction. Authors suggest an experimental method based on consequential friction bending of thread sample against various curvature cylinders and various initial tension, followed by comparison of energy losses in these scenarios.
Keywords: thread, control, deformation, movement, friction bending, internal friction, energy loss, curvature
Sandina A.E., Tatarov S.V., Sorokina M.V.
New in the design of ergonomic molded leather goods using anthropometric data
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_14
The development and improvement of design and technological preparation of leather goods production is hindered by the lack of methods that provide for the use of digital design technologies. Therefore, the article proposes a new method for designing molded leather goods, including the collection and digital processing of anthropometric data of the human figure, the use of standard software and algorithms to establish the ergonomic dimensions of leather goods that are consistent with the size of the human figure.
Keywords: bag, parameter, shape, study, regression equation
Spiridonova V.G., Tsirkina O.G., Petrov A.V., Nikiforov A.L.
Assessment of fire-hazardous properties of fire-resistant textile materials made of natural fibers based on thermogravimetric studies
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_15
This work is devoted to thermogravimetric studies of the dependence of the fire-hazardous properties of natural fiber textile material on the combustion retarder used. The results of thermogravimetric analysis for textile samples treated with three types of flame retardants based on ammonium sulfate and urea in different proportions are presented. Experimental data on the mass loss of the studied materials and the rate of their decomposition in different temperature ranges are obtained.
Keywords: fire hazard, thermogravimetric analysis, textile material, flame retardant, percentage of mass loss, decomposition rate
Litvinov A.M., Kozlov A.A., Klimova N.S., Pereborova N.V.
Development of methods for computer analysis of deformation processes of polymer textile materials
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_16
The issues of the development and implementation of computer methods for analyzing deformation processes of polymer textile materials based on the use of methods of textile materials science and information technologies based on modern concepts of the nonlinear theory of viscoelasticity of polymers.
Keywords: mathematical modeling, computer analysis, polymer materials, deformation properties, relaxation, creep
Smirnova N.A., Lapshin V.V., Zamyshlyaeva V.V., Boiko S.V., Khromeeva I.A.
Automated method for determining the properties of materials under spatial tension
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_17
The article considers a method for determining the technological and operational properties of materials using an automated device for standard breaking machines for textile fabrics, which ensures the reliability and expansion of the information content of measurements and the creation of a database of digitized data on properties that determine the functional purpose of materials and improve their quality assessment.
Keywords: automated method, spatial stretching, properties, materials
Bigeeva K.R., Rakhmatullina G.R., Tikhonova V.P., Nizamova D.K., Akhverdiyev R.F.
The effect of amino-modified resin on the dermis of pink salmon skins
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_18
This article presents the dependence of the welding temperature, thickness and porosity of the dermis on the consumption of resin added to the soaking process, as well as the results of a study of the effect of aminomodified resin on the structure of the dermis of salmon skins (pink salmon). As a result, the optimal concentration of amino resin was determined, which increases the parameters of the welding temperature and the porosity of the dermis.
Keywords: skin salmon, amino-modified resin, temperature welding, retanning, porosity, soaking
Veselova S.A., Arhalova V.V.
Certification of the combined sewing products of the school group at the voluntery certification system "the petersburg quality mark"
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_19
The competitive advantages of combined blouses for girls produced by the sewing factory «Salyut» have been investigated. The analysis of the complex characteristics of woven and knitted fabrics included in the package of these products is carried out in order to assess the possibility of marking them «The Petersburg quality mark».
Keywords: certification, woven and knitted fabrics, the voluntery certification system, consumer properties, quality
Klimova N.S., Litvinov A.M., Pereborova N.V., Kiselev S.V.
Spectral interpretation of deformation processes of polymer textile materials
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_20
With an in-depth study of the physicomechanical properties of filaments made mainly of flexible-chain macromolecules - PA, PEF, PAN, etc. - in the field of non-destructive effects, attention should be paid to such processes as creep and relaxation, in which the hereditary viscoelastic properties of filaments are manifested. By testing the filament samples in these modes, relaxation times, delay times and other characteristics are revealed. The latter are most directly related to the operating conditions of technical yarns. In this regard, in this article, using the example of using a specific normalized function when approximating the relaxation or creep process, we consider the spectral interpretation of the applied characteristics.
Keywords: Relaxation spectrum, delay spectrum, computer prediction, mathematical modeling, polymer materials, deformation properties, relaxation, creep
ART
Afanaseva A.B., Tikhonova Y.S.
The significance of vkhutemas in the development of theatrical culture in russia of xx-xxi centuries
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_21
The article analyzes the role of VHUTEMAS in the development of theatrical culture. The characteristic trends in design laid down by him are traced. The example design for the performances in Saint Petersburg theatres examines the characteristic trends in the modern theatre artist.
Keywords: VHUTEMAS, theatrical culture, design, theatrе artist, art scenery, avant-garde
Tkachenko P.M., Prozorova E.S.
Study of integration of software applications into design process
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_22
The article proposes to consider the main issues of software integration into training in built environment design, as well as during executing professional tasks, new methods and tools for mastering architectural applications. Computer design is considered as an integral part of working on an architectural project, a tool for creating project documentation and presentation. The accumulated experience in using and combinations of various software packages is analysed, the necessary competencies for mastering the modern design process of built environment objects are considered.
Keywords: computer engineering, architectural programs, Architectural visualisation, virtual environment
Burova M.D., Rykova E.S.
Adult problems: children’s shoes in fashion illustration
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_23
The article is devoted to the development of fashion illustration in the field of images of children and their wardrobe items. Fashion illustration became relevant again during the lockdown period, and new trends in this art technique were formed. The article offers a method of depicting children’s feet and shoes, provides recommendations for shaping shoes, and also gives an example of illustrating a children’s sketch collection.
Keywords: fashion illustration, footwear, shoes fashion illustration, children's fashion, shoes, children's shoes
ORGANIZATION OF PRODUCTION
Murtazina A.R., Gusev A.O., Kostyleva V.V., Razin I.B.
The concept of using the networked corporate system and open libraries for the transition to the "smart enterprise"
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_24
The fourth industrial revolution is transforming the economic paradigm and valuesetting mechanisms at its core. There was a switch from mass production to mass customization. There are several challenges in the fashion industry that require the automation of information entry and data format conversion. The article describes the concept of a networked corporate system in the form of a complex of vectorization of graphic information, allowing the transition to Industry 4.0: creating the basis for the architecture of digital control, gradual transfer of production to automation and the use of artificial intelligence technologies.
Keywords: industry 4.0, fashion industry, cloud technologies, cad, smart factories, Shoe Upper Design Drawings, image-processing, input devices, vision systems, Open libraries
AUTOMATION AND CONTROL OF TECHNOLOGICAL PROCESSES AND PRODUCTIONS
Abduvakhidov M.M., Abduvakhidov M.
The study bendability fluctuations packet worker organ with provision for influences of the correlation longitudal acerbity their element
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_51_01_25
In article is considered question about bendability fluctuation worker of the organ, consisting of set compressed by sprained gross flat element, working as monolithic body, and influence of the closed sidebar internal effort on its bendability of the fluctuation, and is shown way of the analytical account this influence.
Keywords: disc element, the effort of the compression, the bendability of the fluctuation, longitudal deformation, mechanical work, potential energy, kinetic energy, differential equation