To the Anniversary of Ekaterina Sergeevna Tsobkallo

Materials Science

A. G. Makarov, A. V. Demidov, A. V. Markovets, P. V. Lukanin, E. S. Sashina, N. N. Machalaba, A. V. Firsov, G. G. Sokova, S. V. Shcherbakov, V. V. Ivanov
Digital prediction of elastic, viscoelastic and plastic properties of polymeric textile materials
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_58_04_01
The article proposes a method for digital prediction of elastic, viscoelastic and plastic properties of polymeric textile materials. The specified prediction for the specified materials is carried out on the basis of the decomposition of the total strain into the corresponding components. Knowledge of the elastic, viscoelastic and plastic deformation components of polymeric textile materials is of particular importance in the design of various kinds of products with the required functionality.
Keywords: mathematical modeling, digital prediction, polymeric textile materials, deformation properties, elasticity, viscoelasticity, plasticity

N. N. Yasinskaya, N. V. Skobova
Study of the technological process of drying in the formation of textile materials with polyurethane coating
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_58_04_02
The article presents the results of a study of the kinetics of convective, microwave and convective-thermoradiation drying during the formation of a polyurethane coating on a woven basis. It is shown that the kinetics of the process of drying fabrics with polyurethane coating by the convective-thermoradiation method does not fundamentally differ from the kinetics of convective drying. The results allow us to evaluate the degree of reduction in drying time when using microwave heating, however, there is a significant deterioration in the surface morphology and structure of the polyurethane coating. Regression models have been obtained that make it possible to predict the duration of drying of polyurethane-coated fabrics depending on the method of heat supply. As a result of evaluating some physical and mechanical properties, it was found that materials that have undergone convective-thermoradiation drying are distinguished by high abrasion resistance and crease resistance of the coating; materials that have undergone convective-thermoradiation drying and microwave drying practically do not differ in terms of rigidity and bond strength of the coating with the fabric. It is recommended to use a combined convective-thermoradiation method for drying and heat treatment when forming a high-quality polyurethane coating on cotton fabric.
Keywords: polyurethane coating, coated fabrics, convective drying, microwave drying, thermoradiation drying, drying kinetics physical and mechanical properties

V. E. Bedenko, E. S. Tsobkallo, I. Yu. Tropanikhin, A. E. Erokhin
Changes in the strength and deformation properties of technical fabrics in the process of light-weather Aging
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_58_04_03
Technical textiles used outdoors and exposed to the weather should include performance characteristics such as light and weather resistance, light-weather aging kinetics, life expectancy, etc. On the example of seventeen variants of fabrics of different fibrous composition, different finishes and structures, the features of the mechanism of natural light-weather aging were revealed during many months of round-the-clock bench tests. The light-weather resistance of fabrics 100 % consisting of polyamide, polyester, cotton, viscose fibers, and half-linen, half-woolen, cotton-polyester fabrics, with a cotton content of 35 % to 80 % was evaluated. The insolation index, which characterizes the resistance of tissues to the action of natural light-weather factors, ranged from 9 to 50 units.
Keywords: textile materials for technical use, light-weather resistance, light-weather aging kinetics, insolation index

D. V. Sichevoy, K. E. Razumeev, E. P. Lavrentreva
Development of a method for identifying wool fibers by DNA sequencing
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_58_04_04
A method is proposed for identifying the raw material composition of products containing wool fibers of different breeds of animals. The advantages of this method in comparison with other methods for determining the composition of textile materials are shown. The procedural aspect is disclosed, including DNA sequencing as the main link of the proposed method. The results of a study using this method are presented in relation to selected samples of products from animal wool of different origins.
Keywords: sequencing method, primer, DNA, fiber identification, raw material composition determination, product falsification, quality control

V. D. Borozna, D. I. Bykovsky, A. V. Charkovsky, A. N. Burkin
Development of hybrid knitwear with increased hygienic properties as a textile base of artificial leather
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_58_04_05
The present work is devoted to the development of hybrid knitwear with increased hygienic properties as a textile base for artificial leather shoe. The article presents research on the properties of experimental samples of hybrid knitwear. The results will allow designing the structure of shoe artificial leather with the best hygienic properties that meets the requirements of consumers.
Keywords: artificial leather shoes, textile base, hybrid knitwear, hygienic properties, quality

G. I. Legezina
Investigation of structural characteristics of yarn properties
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_58_04_06
The article investigates the structural characteristics of the properties of yarn of various fibrous composition and purpose, in particular, the yarn hairiness and its effect on the quality characteristics of yarn products are evaluated.
Keywords: structural characteristics of yarn, linear density, specific breaking load, hairiness, uneven properties

E. A. Pankova, G. R. Rakhmatullina, A. I. Sapozhnikova
Modification of natural leather materials by high-frequency plasma in order to form a set of properties necessary to produce high-quality special-purpose shoes
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_58_04_07
The effect of high-frequency plasma modification on the leather for the shoe upper produced with chrome method of tanning from cattle skins was investigated, the best modification mode was revealed. The possibility of high-frequency plasma modification of the structure is shown and rationalized, as a result of which the material obtains a set of properties that significantly improve the quality of special-purpose shoes.
Keywords: leather from cattle skins with coating, high-frequency plasma of reduced pressure, special purposes shoes

Computer modeling and design automation

Sh. R. Khurramov, F. Z. Kurbanova, N. U. Annae
Some parameters of a two- roll module of leather squeezing
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_58_04_08
In the article, calculation formulas for the magnitude of slip and sticke, as well as the angles that determine the position of the points of separation of the sticke zone from the slip zones, are found. It was revealed that with an increase in the projection of external forces on the ordinate axis and a decrease in the projection of external forces on the abscissa axis, the slip zone increases, and the sticking zone decreases.
Keywords: two-roll squeezing module of leather, roll contact curves, sticking zones, lagging sliding zones, advancing sliding zones

A. V. Demidov, P. V. Lukanin, A. G. Makarov, A. V. Markovets, E. S. Sashina, G. G. Sokova , N. N. Machalaba, A. V. Firsov , V. V. Ivanov , S. V. Shcherbakov
Increasing reliability of digital simulation of operating modes of polymeric textile materials
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_58_04_09
The issues of increasing the accuracy of digital modeling of the operating conditions of polymeric textile materials, which are important both from the scientific and practical side, are considered, since this makes it possible to obtain recommendations for the creation of new promising materials with desired functional properties. The article considers a method for optimizing mathematical modeling of the fundamental deformation-operational modes of polymeric textile materials.
Keywords: mathematical modeling, optimization criteria, polymeric textile materials, deformation properties, relaxation, creep

Sh. R. Khurramov, F. S. Khalturaev, K. Yu. Aliboev
Residual humidity of the leather during roller squeezing
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_58_04_10
The work is devoted to modeling the residual moisture of the leather during roll squeezing. It was found that the fluid filtration rate along the abscissa at the boundaries of the compression zone is zero, and inside the zone, it takes negative values. It has been established that the residual moisture of the leather depends on the angle that determines the position of the point where the liquid changes direction.
Keywords: roller squeezing of leather, changes in removed humidity, liquid filtration, squeezing area, residual moisture

Automation and control of technological processes and production

Sh. R. Khurramov, K. K. Turgunov, K. Yu. Aliboev
Hydraulic pressures in the process of roller squeezing of leather
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_58_04_11
The results of the study of hydraulic pressure in the process of roller squeezing the leather are presented. Mathematical models of hydraulic pressure distribution in the wringing zone have been developed. It was found that the hydraulic pressure in the compression zone increases from zero at the initial contact point to a maximum at a point lying on the line of centers. The regularities of the distribution of hydraulic pressure in the deformation recovery zone depend on the extent of its part, where the liquid passes from the leather into the cover of the rolls.
Keywords: roll squeezing, fibrous material, liquid filtration, hydraulic pressure, squeezing area

Technology for the production of textile and light industry products

E. A. Loginova, V. I. Besshaposhnikova, N. E. Kovaleva
Design of materials and products for protection against toxic chemicals
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_58_04_12
The paper presents the results of designing the structure and studying the properties of multilayer materials for protective clothing against hazardous and toxic chemicals, which are characterized by high strength and provide protection class 6 in terms of resistance to the penetration of liquid o-xylene and ammonia vapor. A model of overalls made of developed textile materials for protection against toxic chemicals is proposed.
Keywords: design, properties, structure, textile fabrics, chemical protection, toxic substances

N. A. Тoporishcheva, A. V. Cheshkova, S. A. Rodionov, G. A. Khosrovyan
Development of practical technologies for the production of cotinine and cotonine-containing textile products
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_58_04_13
The article presents generalized data on the practical results of obtaining cotton yarn with the addition of cotonine and mixed fabrics. Attention is focused on the prospects of cotonine-containing textile products not only in the direction of expanding its assortment, but as a strategic course for import substitution of natural fiber raw materials, the development of light industry of the Russian Federation and related industries.
Keywords: cotonin, cotonization, flax fiber, flax cotton yarn, harsh fabric

G. R. Rakhmatullina, E. A. Pankova, O. V. Fukina
Development of a set of «breathing» leather materials with increased heat resistance for the production of welder’s personal protective equipment
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_58_04_14
The effect of high-frequency plasma modification of leather materials from cattle skins using the chromium tanning method has been studied, and the best modification mode has been identified. The possibility of high-frequency plasma modification of the structure is shown and substantiated, as a result of which the material gets a set of properties, which makes it possible to significantly improve the quality of personal protective equipment.
Keywords: leather materials from cattle skins with the chromium tanning method, low-pressure high-frequency plasma, personal protective equipment, heat resistance, hygienic properties

Technology and processing of synthetic and natural polymers and composites

E. S. Sashina, A. V. Demidov, P. V. Lukanin, A. G. Makarov, A. V. Markovets, G. G. Sokova, N. N. Machalaba, A. V. Firsov, V. V. Ivanov, S. V. Shcherbakov
Polyurethane leatherette with thermochromic coloristic effect
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_58_04_15
A method for producing artificial leather based on polyurethane with the effect of color change with increasing / decreasing temperature is investigated. The color characteristics of the coating and resistance to dry and wet friction have been studied.
Keywords: polyurethan skin, thermochromic composition, chromaticity coordinates

Arts (Technical Aesthetics and Design)

D. A. Kirgan, S. M. Vankovich
Formation of the individual style of the St. Petersburg fashion house Lilia Kisselenko
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_58_04_16
Based on archival sources and media materials, collections of models and media materials, the article presents the history of the formation and creative development of the Fashion House Lilia Kisselenko in St. Petersburg. In the process of researching the specifics of creating author’s collections, the individual style of the founder of the brand Lilia Kiselenko is analyzed.
Keywords: Fashion house, style, costume, brand, Lilia Kiselenko

O. I. Denisova, A. R. Denisov
Methodology for choosing a dress code format
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_58_04_17
Based on the study of the functions of the corporate uniform and the assessment of their significance, depending on the degree of formalization of the dress code requirements, a methodology has been developed that allows analyzing the customer’s requirements for the design of the uniform by applying the hierarchy analysis method and determining the required dress code format based on the priority of the corporate clothing functions.
Keywords: hierarchy analysis method, formality, requirement, corporate uniform, function

E. E. Ustyahina, N. V. Bekk, M. V. Taybe, N. V. Tikhonova
Use of color coding and color ergonomics when designing the technical equipment of console and dispatch room zones
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_58_04_18
All types of industries and scientific bases have an actual zone — a control room. It is shown that color in the working environment has its own laws, characteristics, media. Great emphasis is placed on the visual perception of processes. Recommendations are given on the configuration of control rooms and control rooms, on the color ergonomics of the room. The functions of color in control rooms and control rooms and the factors influencing the choice of color-coding are determined. Groups of color-coding are selected. The proposed solutions provide a reduction in overload of workers.
Keywords: color, shape formation, ergonomics, equipment, control zone, control room

Yu. E. Muzalevskaya
Russian folk costume is the guardian of Christian values in the modern world
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_58_04_20
The article is devoted to the analysis of the development of design trends in the field of costume and their impact on changing the image of a modern person. The Russian folk costume is the guardian of the traditional values of Christian culture. In the era of gender experiments, when the understanding of the image of a man and a woman is lost, a costume that has gathered the wisdom of past generations seems to be an invaluable source of inspiration and, perhaps, it is time to reconsider the attitude towards it again, as it was in the 20s of the last century.
Keywords: Russian folk costume, design, traditional values

Brief messages

A. V. Truevtsev, L. P. Rovinskaya
Petersburg textile colloquium continues its work
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_58_04_21
The well-known Textile Colloquium was held at St. Petersburg State University of Industrial Technologies and Design. It was devoted to the innovations of hosiery, technology of pattern stitches and textiles of special purposes. The meeting gathered the university staff, students and engineers from industrial firms of St. Petersburg.
Keywords: Textile Colloquium, knitting technology, hosiery