№ 3, 2022
Материаловедение
А.К. Хайруллин, Э.Ф. Вознесенский, С.Б. Баллыев
Технология получения кожи с применением плазменной обработки растительного дубителя
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_01
Е.Г. Григорьева, Абдул Рахман Али, Сулайман Омар
Влияние структуры прессового трикотажа на растяжимость при определенных нагрузках
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_02
Макаров А.Г., Вагнер В.И., Климова Н.С.
Применение цифрового прогнозирования при определении упругих, вязкоупругих и пластических компонент деформации текстильных материалов
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_03
А.Г. Коган, В.Г. Буткевич, Ф.А. Полоник, Т.С. Столярова
Технология получения ткани из огнетермостойких комбинированных нитей
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_04
И.А. Шеромова
Новый способ измерения длины рулонных текстильных материалов
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_05
Компьютерное моделирование и автоматизация проектирования
Перминова К.В. Койтова Ж.Ю. Борисова Е.Н.
Анализ формы и площади волосяного покрова образцов в процессе раскроя
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_06
Автоматизация и управление технологическими процессами и производствами
В.И. Андрианов, Д.Э. Добрянский, А.Н. Грибченков
Методика оценки поведенческого анализа в UBA
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_07
В.В. Волков, Н.К. Пакулова
Моделирование движения волокна в вытяжных приборах ленточных машин
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_08
Системный анализ, управление и обработка информации, статистика
Киселев С.В.
Методы системного анализа при определении энергии активации процессов релаксации и ползучести полимерных материалов
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_09
Технология производства изделий текстильной и легкой промышленности
К.Н. Каримов, Э.Ф. Вознесенский, Ю.А. Тимошина, Я.О. Желонкин, М.М. Миронов, М.М. Гребенщикова, Н.В. Тихонова
Методы металлизации фурнитуры изделий легкой промышленности и порошковых материалов
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_10
Вагнер В.И., Киселев С.В., Козлов С.В.
Разработка методов моделирования эластических свойств крученых текстильных нитей
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_11
Г.В. Казарновская, Е.С. Милеева
Исследование влияния параметров строения тканей на уработку нитей основы и утка для проектирования крупноузорчатых переплетений
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_12
А.А. Рычкова, В.В. Сафонов
Разработка технологии защиты человека от электромагнитного излучения с использованием поглощающих материалов
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_13
Р.Р. Фаткуллина, Л.Н. Абуталипова, Р.М. Яруллин
К вопросу расширения ассортимента изделий реабилитационного назначения с использованием комплексного материала
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_14
П.Г. Деркаченко, Е.С. Милеева., Т.А. Антонова, В.Ф. Захарченок
Разработка программного продукта для оценки возможности выравнивания уработки нитей основы
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_15
Л.Р. Ханнанова–Фахрутдинова, Ю.А. Коваленко, Л.Р. Фатхуллина, Н.В. Тихонова
Анализ ассортимента и конструкций одежды для новорожденных детей, выпускаемых предприятиями республики Татарстан
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_16
Технология и переработка синтетических и природных полимеров и композитов
А.М. Бочек, Е.А. Терехова, М.Ф. Лебедева, В.Е. Смирнова, И.В. Гофман, И.В. Абалов, В.К. Лаврентьев, В.Е. Юдин
Композиционные пленки водорастворимых эфиров целлюлозы с арабиногалактаном
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_17
Н.А. Иванов, А.М. Киселев
Крашение смесовых текстильных материалов путем синтеза азокрасителей с ковалентной фиксацией на волокне
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_18
Н.В. Скобова, Н.Н. Ясинская
Исследование гигроскопических свойств функциональных нитей для формирования текстильных композиционных материалов
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_19
Ю.А. Тимошина, Э.Ф. Вознесенский, Е.В. Перушкина
Плазменные методы подготовки субстрата и фиксации наночастиц при получении антибактериальных полимерных материалов
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_20
Н.А. Топорищева, А.В. Чешкова, О.А. Каменева, А.А. Кузнецова
Биоотварка в технологиях получения актуальных гладкоокрашенных тканей на основе котонина льна
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_21
Ю.В. Харапудько, Ю.А. Тимошина, Э.Ф. Вознесенский, Н.В. Тихонова
Влияние плазменной модификации на свободную поверхностную энергию текстильных материалов, ламинированных полимерными пленками на основе полиолефинов
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_22
Виды искусства (Техническая эстетика и дизайн)
О.Е. Денисова
Дизайн модных журналов ленинградского дома моделей одежды(1930 – 1990-е гг.)
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_23
Саван Васим
Эстетическая концепция ауры для дизайна городской среды: теоретический подход
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_24
No. 3, 2022
Materials Science
A.K. Khairullin, E.F. Voznesensky, S.B. Ballyev
Technology for obtaining leather using plasma treatment of vegetable tanning agent
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_01
The article proposes a method for obtaining leather from sheepskin skins using plasma treatment of vegetable tanning agent. The analysis of physical and mechanical properties and qualitative characteristics of semi-finished products from sheepskin skins obtained using plasma treatment of vegetable tanning agent was carried out. Suggested recommendations for improving the quality of semi-finished products.
Keywords: leather, semi-finished product, technology, sheepskin, quality indicators, physical and mechanical properties, welding temperature, mineral content
E.G. Grigorieva, Abdul Rahman Ali, Sulaiman Omar
Influence of the structure of press jersey on extensibility under certain loads
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_02
In this paper, we analyzed the influence of the structure of a double press knitted weave on its extensibility. Determining the components of the tensile strain of a double press knitted fabric at constant force is of great interest.
Keywords: knitwear, extensibility, double press weave, fang, semi-fang, properties
A.G. Makarov, V.I. Vagner, N.S. Klimova
Application of digital prediction in the determination of elastic, viscoelastic and plastic deformation components of textile materials
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_03
The article proposes a method for digital prediction of elastic, viscoelastic and plastic deformation components of polymeric fibrous materials. The decomposition of the total strain into components is based on digital prediction of the process of uniform stretching of the specified materials. Knowledge of the elastic, viscoelastic and plastic deformation components of polymeric fibrous materials is of particular importance in the design of various kinds of products with the required functionality.
Keywords: mathematical modeling, digital prediction, polymeric fibrous materials, deformation properties, elasticity, viscoelasticity, plasticity
A.G. Kogan, V.G. Butkevich, F.A. Polonik, T.S. Stolyarov
Technology for producing fabric from fire-resistant combined threads
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_04
An article is proposed devoted to the development and research of the technological process for obtaining fabric from fire-resistant threads. The physical and mechanical properties of both threads and fabrics are presented. The optimization of the technological process with the use of the mathematical apparatus for planning the experiment is proposed.
Keywords: thread, technology, properties, indicator, material
I.A. Sheromov
A new way to measure the length of rolled textile materials
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_05
The article presents and describes a method and device for measuring the length of textile materials with a patterned texture of various types. The essence of the method consists in calculating the actual length of the roll based on the reference linear size of the repeat of the surface of the web, which is taken as the technologically specified length of the repeat of the undeformed measured material, and the number of repeats on its measured length in accordance with the given algorithm. The method involves continuous non-contact reading and processing of the initial measurement information using a specially trained neural network, which reduces the error in measuring the length of the material in the roll and, ultimately, contributes to a more rational use of materials in the manufacture of finished products.
Keywords: easily deformable textile materials, material length in a roll, length measurement method, method implementation device, measurement information processing, specially trained neural network with artificial intelligence elements
Computer modeling and design automation
K.V. Perminova, Zh.Yu. Koitova,E.N. Borisova
Analysis of the shape and area of the hairline of samples in the process of cutting
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_06
Analysis of the characteristics of the hairline that affect the visual perception of samples cut from the skin. Obtaining the geometric shape of these samples, their visualization in polygonal design programs for subsequent consideration in the design of fur products. Obtaining formulas for calculating the area occupied by the hairline and its ratio with the area of the skin tissue.
Keywords: natural fur, complex cutting method, stitching, hair angle, visualization, hairline area, covering ability
Automation and control of technological processes and production
V.I. Andrianov, D.E. Dobryansky, A.N. Gribchenkov
Behavioral Analysis Assessment Methodology at UBA
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_07
This article will consider ways to build a behavioral analysis of a user and a group of users based on UBA / UEBA, and will consider existing solutions both from companies from Russia and from other countries.
Keywords: Behavioral analysis, UEBA, UBA, big data, data science
V.V. Volkov, N.K. Pakulova
Simulation of fiber movement in draw frames of draw frames
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_08
The article considers mechanical models of a viscoelastic material, evaluates the influence of elasticity and plasticity of a homogeneous viscoelastic material on the dynamics of its transportation process in the draw zone of a tape machine.
Keywords: fibrous product, mechanical model, viscoelastic material, deformation.
System analysis, information management and processing, statistics
S.V. Kiselev
System Analysis Methods for Determination of the Activation Energy of the Relaxation and Creep Processes of Polymeric Materials
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_09
The article considers a systematic analysis of the activation energy of the relaxation and creep processes of polymeric textile materials. A method for calculating the indicated activation energy based on mathematical modeling of relaxation processes and creep processes of these materials is presented.
Keywords: activation energy, relaxation, creep, viscoelasticity, deformation
Technology for the production of textile and light industry products
K.N. Karimov, E.F. Voznesensky, Yu.A. Timoshina, Ya.O. Zhelonkin, M.M. Mironov, M.M. Grebenshchikova, N.V. Tikhonov
Methods of metallization of fittings for light industry products and powder materials
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_10
A review and analysis of the methods of metallization of fittings for light industry products and powder materials has been carried out. The advantages and disadvantages of liquid and plasma methods for deposition of metal coatings on small-sized products and dispersed materials are determined. The conditions for uniform coating of powder materials and small-sized products are determined.
Keywords: fittings, light industry products, powder material, metallization, spraying, PVD
V.I. Vagner,S.V. Kiselev,S.V. Kozlov
Development of methods for modeling the elastic properties of twisted textile yarns
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_11
The article studies the modeling of the elastic properties of polyester twisted textile yarns. Reducing the degree of twist of textile threads within acceptable limits affects the reduction of time spent on the technological process of production and brings an economic effect.
Keywords: mathematical modeling, polyester yarns, elastic properties, deformation, degree of twist
G.V. Kazarnovskaya, E.S. Mileeva
Study of the influence of fabric structure parameters on the processing of warp and weft threads for the design of large-patterned weaves
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_12
The work is devoted to the design of costume large-patterned fabrics using in the warp and in the weft cottonized flax-cotton yarn with a linear density of 50 tex of the pneumo-mechanical spinning method on Picanol looms with a Bonas jacquard machine.
The influence of the weft density and the type of weave on the production of threads in the fabric has been established, it has been shown that it is advisable to manufacture the designed fabrics with a weft density from 190 threads / 10 cm to 200 threads / 10 cm, since at these values the supporting surface is formed by both systems of threads, which increases wear resistance, and this is of particular importance for suit fabrics. The deviation in the values of the wear of the warp and weft threads for each weave, calculated theoretically and found from the samples, does not exceed 3%.
When developing jacquard patterns, the studied weaves in the pattern must be placed evenly along the rapport in order to align the warp wear along the width of the machine, to a greater extent this applies to plain weave. A jacquard pattern has been created, implemented in the assortment of suit fabrics at RUPTP "Orsha Linen Mill", which in terms of physical and mechanical properties correspond to TU BY300051814.018-2018.
Keywords: cottonized linen yarn, structural parameters, working out, jacquard suiting fabric, physical and mechanical properties
A.A. Rychkova, V.V. Safonov
Development of technology for protecting a person from electromagnetic radiation using absorbing materials
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_13
A method has been developed for applying an absorbent coating to a textile material. A technology has been developed for the manufacture of materials that absorb electromagnetic radiation. The absorbing capacity of coated textile materials has been evaluated.
Keywords: EMR, absorbing materials, radio absorption, textile materials
R.R. Fatkullina, L.N. Abutalipova, R.M. Yarullin
On the issue of expanding the range of products for rehabilitation purposes using complex material
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_14
The article discusses the materials for the projected rehabilitation cover (shoe product), which is intended as a temporary replacement for shoes and protecting the foot after an injury. Such a cover should protect a person from low temperatures, mechanical influences,to some extent from moisture, and also perform aesthetic functions. For the footprint (sole) of the product, a complex material is proposed, which should provide protective properties from low temperatures (-1ºC to -25ºC). The possibility of creating a sole from a complex material, consisting of layers of natural woolen non-woven material "felt" and a synthetic polymer material ethylene vinyl acetate (EVA), was tested in experience. A feature of the product is the presence of 1) a combined (adhesive and thread) connection of layers of felt and an EVA polymer sole material, 2) a thread connection of the bottom and top of the product, 3) a multivariant solution for the selection of materials for the top of the cover (knitwear "fleece"). In the future, the creation of complex materials, including layers of felt and EVA, differing in size, will make it possible to offer a number of shoe products for rehabilitation purposes and thereby expand the range of products of a felting enterprise.
Keywords: complex material, felt, ethylene vinyl acetate (EVA), range expansion
P.G. Derkachenko, E.S. Mileeva., T.A. Antonova, V.F. Zakharchenok
Development of a software product for evaluating the possibility of equalizing warp threads
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_15
The article tested the program for calculating the wear of the warp threads. The effectiveness of the developed program was tested in two directions: by comparing the calculated value of the loss with the values obtained as a result of extracting the thread from the sample of the finished fabric, as well as by comparing the wrinkle coefficients and bending wave heights of the threads included in the program with the actual ones obtained from sections of gray fabric.
To produce the fabric under the conditions of RUETP "Orsha Linen Mill", a jacquard pattern of a one and a half layer suiting fabric was created, in the background of which a crepe weave was used on the front side, and plain weave on the wrong side. On the basis of the deployed cartridge, an analysis was made of the wear of the warp threads, in accordance with which the jacquard pattern was refined. The fabric was produced on Picanol looms with a Bonas jacquard machine. The development process did not reveal any comments, the fabric in terms of physical and mechanical properties corresponds to TU BY300051814.018-2018.
Keywords: program, jacquard fabric, processing, fabric structure parameters, number of intersections, Java, Color class, AWT library, tissue sections, microscopy
L.R. Khannanova–Fakhrutdinova, Yu.A. Kovalenko, L.R. Fathullina, N.V. Tikhonov
Analysis of the range and designs of clothing for newborns produced by enterprises of the Republic of Tatarstan
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_16
This article reflects the results of a study of the range, types and design solutions for products for newborns manufactured by enterprises of the Republic of Tatarstan. As an example, a comparative analysis of the assortment of enterprises in the city of Kazan is given, according to the following indicators: the dominant types of products in the assortment; compositional and design features of products; size range; materials used; average retail price of products.
Keywords: newborns, enterprises, assortment, knitted fabrics, clothing design, standard sizes.
Technology and processing of synthetic and natural polymers and composites
A.M. Bochek, E.A. Terekhova, M.F. Lebedeva, V.E. Smirnova, I.V. Hoffman, I.V. Abalov, V.K. Lavrentiev, V.E. Yudin
Composite films of water-soluble cellulose ethers with arabinogalactan
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_17
Composite films were obtained from aqueous solutions of mixtures of carboxymethylcellulose with arabinogalactan and their deformation-strength properties were studied. Using X-ray diffraction and dynamic mechanical analysis, their structural organization was studied and the range of compositions in which polysaccharides were compatible in the solid state was established.
Keywords: arabinogalactan, carboxymethylcellulose, polymer blends, glass transition temperature, structure
N.A. Ivanov, A.M. Kiselev
Dyeing of mixed textile materials by synthesis of azo dyes with covalent fixation on fiber
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_18
In order to expand the use of domestic dyes in the textile industry, a technology has been developed for dyeing mixed textile materials based on the synthesis of insoluble azo dyes on a fibrous substrate capable of covalent fixation with the formation of colors with high color and strength characteristics.
Keywords: mixed material, dyeing, azo dye, covalent fixation, technology optimization, coloring quality
N.V. Skobova, N.N. Yasinskaya
Study of the hygroscopic properties of functional yarns for the formation of textile composite materials
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_19
This work is devoted to the study of the hygroscopic properties of functional polyester yarns, which were evaluated by the mass of absorbed water and the rate of absorption. The article suggestsand a mass method for determining the capillary properties of functional threads, a comparative analysis of the hygienic properties of polyester threads was carried out. The results will make it possible to make a reasonable choice of threads for the manufacture of textile fabrics used as layers of composite materials with desired properties.
Keywords: functional threads, capillarity, hygienic properties, textile composite material
Yu.A. Timoshina, E.F. Voznesensky, E.V. Perushkina
Plasma Methods for Substrate Preparation and Nanoparticle Fixation in Obtaining Antibacterial Polymer Materials
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_20
The paper presents the results of a study of the antibacterial activity of polypropylene non-woven materials used for the manufacture of medical and surgical clothing, underwear, as well as disposable personal protective equipment. The study of the antibacterial activity of materials was carried out by assessing the inhibition of colony formation of the E. coli culture on the surface of the samples and by the number of living cells of S. aureus in the swabs from the surface of the samples. A technique for modifying nonwoven fibrous materials with preparations of silver nanoparticles using low-pressure high-frequency discharge plasma treatment has been proposed, which made it possible to obtain materials with uniformly distributed and stably fixed silver nanoparticles in the surface layer of fibers.
Keywords: nonwoven material, antibacterial properties, silver nanoparticles, plasma modification, silver nanoparticles
N.A. Toporishcheva, A.V. Cheshkova, O.A. Kameneva, A.A. Kuznetsova
Biodecoction in technologies for obtaining topical plain-dyed fabrics based on flax cottonine
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_21
The expediency of coloring enzymatically prepared naturally dyed fabrics without bleaching in order to obtain an original color effect is substantiated. The effect of the duration of enzymatic treatment on the technical properties and color of actual cotton fabrics with cottonin content from 25 to 90% was evaluated. It is shown that the consequence of purposeful modification of flax cellulose in the process of enzymatic treatment with carbohydrases using technology simulating the operation of ejector-type equipment is an increase in the whiteness and capillary properties of tissues due to the removal of impurities, as well as the sorption susceptibility and reactivity of cellulose with respect to active dyes. The duration of the enzymatic treatment before dyeing has been optimized in order to obtain the actual design and predictable color effects controlled by lightness, saturation, hue and K/S.
Keywords: enzymes, preparation, color characteristics, cottonine-containing fabrics, cottonine, fabric dyeing, active dyes
Yu.V. Kharapudko, Yu.A. Timoshina, E.F. Voznesensky, N.V. Tikhonov
Effect of Plasma Modification on the Free Surface Energy of Textile Materials Laminated with Polymer Films Based on Polyolefins
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_22
The results of experimental studies of the effect of high-frequency capacitive (HF) plasma modification in plasma-forming gases argon and air on the free surface energy (FES) of polyethylene (PE) and polypropylene (PP) films used to create gas-permeable multilayer textile materials are presented. It has been shown that HF plasma modification leads to an increase in the SPE of samples of PE and PP films by 96–97% compared to the original unmodified samples, which can be used to increase the adhesion of polymer films to adhesive compositions and functional coatings as part of multilayer textile materials.
Keywords: textile material, polymer film, free surface energy, polyethylene, polypropylene, high-frequency capacitive discharge, plasma modification
Arts (Technical Aesthetics and Design)
O.E. Denisova
Design of fashion magazines of the Leningrad House of Fashion Models (1930 - 1990s)
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_23
On the examples of periodicals of the Leningrad House of Fashion Models, the article studies the development of fashion magazine design in the 1930s-1990s. The author examines the content of the journals and analyzes the ongoing changes.
Keywords: Leningrad House of Models, Soviet fashion magazines, fashion, style
Sawan Wasim
Aesthetic Concept of Aura for Urban Environment Design: A Theoretical Approach
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2022_57_03_24
The article defines the methodological points for designing the artistic and figurative perception of the city. The possibilities of extrapolating the concept of Walter Benjamin's aura to the design of the urban environment are considered, where the aura is understood as the dominant atmosphere of a place or as its emotional context. It is noted that the perception and exposure of the images of the city by new means can be considered as an aesthetic value that contributes to the improvement of the aesthetic status of the city.
Keywords: conceptaura expression, Walter Benjamin, design of the urban environment