№ 3, 2021 - Журнал ТЛП СПГУТД

№ 3, 2021

А.В. Куличенко
К 100-летию со дня рождения профессора Сухарева Михаила Ивановича
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_01

МАТЕРИАЛЫ МЕЖДУНАРОДНОЙ НАУЧНО-ТЕХНИЧЕСКОЙ КОНФЕРЕНЦИИ LIGHT CONF 2021 «НАУКА-ТЕХНОЛОГИЯ-ПРИОЗВОДСТВО»

Е.П. Арсеньева, М.А. Гусева, Е.Г. Андреева
Конфекционирование лечебно-бандажного корректирующего изделия для экзопротезирования женщин после мастэктомии
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_02

А.Е. Горелова, Д.А. Васильев
Разработка методики создания цифровых двойников швейных изделий с компрессионным воздействием
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_03

Е.Н. Ерохина
Подход к моделированию физико-механических свойств тканых материалов при проектировании одежды
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_04

О.В. Клещукова
Разработка информационного обеспечения проектирования платьев в среде 3d САПР на основе прототипов стиля «Ар-деко»
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_05

Н.А. Сахарова
Цифровая мода – новая траектория развития Fashion индустрии
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_06

Ш.Чжан, В.Е. Кузьмичев
Параметризация исторических чертежей с использованием программ трехмерной визуализации
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_07

О.И. Денисова
Формулирование требований к проекту униформы с позиций теории моды с применением аппарата вероятностных и причинно-следственных рассуждений
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_08

Е.Ю. Долгова, М.А. Чижик, Ж.М. Найманханова, Т.М. Иванцова
Формирование обучающей выборки для создания цифровых двойников текстильных материалов
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_09

ТЕХНОЛОГИЯ МАТЕРИАЛОВ И ИЗДЕЛИЙ ТЕКСТИЛЬНОЙ И ЛЕГКОЙ ПРОМЫШЛЕННОСТИ

И.А. Гаджибекова
Товарные свойства шубных овчин от дагестанских пород овец
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_10

И.Н. Тюрин, С.В. Кудринский, А.Г. Кузьмин, Л.А. Соболева, В.С. Белгородский
Проектирование поворотного механизма системы боди-сканирования
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_11

А.В. Островская, Р.Р. Шагивалиева, И.И. Латфуллин, А.И. Сапожникова
Совершенствование технологии обработки шкурок кролика путем применения модифицированной изопропиловым спиртом аминосмолы
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_12

М.А. Гончарова, Е.Е. Ширшов, С.А. Колесник, В.Ф. Богданов
Исследование пакетов с несвязным композиционным утеплителем при отрицательных температурах
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_13

А.А. Козлов, Н.С. Климова, А.М. Литвинов, А.А. Макарова
Системный анализ деформационных свойств полимерных текстильных материалов на основе математического моделирования вязкоупругости
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_14

Н.В. Скобова, Н.Н. Ясинская, А.Е. Даниленко, А.В. Сохова
Оценка специальных свойств функциональных нитей и трикотажных полотен из них для формирования многослойных обувных материалов
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_15

О.М. Иванов, Т.О. Имбировский, В.В. Безносова, С.Ю. Иванова
Повышение эффективности применения ИК-излучателя при сушке текстильных материалов
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_16

А.Г Куренкова, С.В. Татаров, Е.П. Зажигина
Развитие проектирования элементов обувной литьевой оснастки с использованием кинематически-образованных поверхностей. Сообщение 1
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_17

Э.Ф. Вознесенский, Э.А. Каралин, А.В. Трофимов, Д.Д. Зиянгиров, Аз.Ф. Гайсин, Г.Н. Кулевцов, Е.С. Нефедьев
Формирование каталитически активного покрытия на стеклотекстильном материале вакуумно-плазменными методами
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_18

О.И. Яковлева, В.А. Храмчихин, Е.С. Сашина, Т. Манецки
Исследование фильтрующих свойств иглопробивного материала из отходов шелкопереработки
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_19

А.П. Михайловская, А.С. Грищук, И.В. Елохин, С.С. Лысова
Сорбция галогенидов тетраалкиламмония на кристаллитах целлюлозы
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_20

С.В. Киселев, А.А. Козлов, А.М. Литвинов, Н.С. Климова
Вариант математического моделирования деформационных свойств текстильных полимерных материалов
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_21

П.С. Карабанов, В.А. Харина, Г.А. Бороздина
Моделирование фрикционного взаимодействия ходовой части подошв с опорной поверхностью
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_22

Г.Р. Рахматуллина, Е.А. Панкова, А.И. Сапожникова
Анализ отечественного рынка производства кожи
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_23

ИСКУССТВОВЕДЕНИЕ

Н.В. Бекк, М.В. Таубе, Е.А. Лешукова, Н.В. Тихонова
Инновационная интеграция функций хранения и перемещения в объекте «Чемодан»
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_24

Т.В. Белая
Способы и формы взаимодействия компьютерной графики и декоративно-прикладного искусства
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_25

Н.Г. Дружинкина
Камины и лестницы как архитектурно-композиционные доминанты в дизайне индивидуального современного жилища
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_26

М.В. Таубе, Н.В. Бекк, Н.В. Тихонова
Предпосылки экологической логики и их визуализация в коллекции украшений
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_53_03_27

Eng

No. 3, 2021

A.V. Kulichenko
Professor Sukharev M.I. To the 100th Anniversary of His Birth
DOI: 10.46418 / 0021-3489_2021_53_03_01
The article describes the life path and the most important facts of the biography of one of the founders of the Department of Materials Science of the University, thanks to which the scientific base and the academic school of teaching in the universities of the country of textile materials science were formed.
Keywords: Sukharev, textiles, materials science.

MATERIALS OF THE INTERNATIONAL SCIENTIFIC AND TECHNICAL CONFERENCE LIGHT CONF 2021 "SCIENCE-TECHNOLOGY-PRODUCTION"

E.P. Arsenyeva, M.A. Guseva, E.G. Andreeva
Confectioning of a therapeutic-bandage corrective device for exoprosthetics of women after mastectomy
DOI: 10.46418 / 0021-3489_2021_53_03_02
The article presents the characteristics of a typical confection-package for a medical-bandage or corrective bra with the function of fixing an exoprosthesis of the mammary gland.
Keywords: fabrics for fabrication, therapeutic bandage or corrective product, exoprosthetics of women after mastectomy.

A.E. Gorelova, D.A. Vasil'ev
Development of a method for creating digital twins of sewing products with compression effect
DOI: 10.46418 / 0021-3489_2021_53_03_03
The creation of a high-quality digital double of clothing is constrained by the lack of full-fledged information and software about the patterns of formation of shells with the elastic properties of the skin and fat layer and muscle tissue inherent in the client under the influence of the design features of the product and indicators of material properties.
Keywords: digital twin, clothing, clothing CAD, clothing customization, compression garments, corsetry, virtual fitting, comfort

E.N. Erohina
An approach to modeling the physical and mechanical properties of woven materials in clothing design
DOI: 10.46418 / 0021-3489_2021_53_03_04
The article presents the main provisions and some results of the implementation of the approach to modeling the behavior of woven materials in the design of clothing. The approach is based on the use of generalized behavior models and the finite element method.
Keywords: textile materials, nonlinear behavior, finite element method (FEM), clothing design

O.V. Kleshchukova
Development of information support for dress designing in 3d cad based on prototypes of the "Ar-deco" style
DOI: 10.46418 / 0021-3489_2021_53_03_05
Developments in the field of designing clothes based on prototypes of the Art Deco style are outlined. A critical analysis of historical drawings, a study of the dimensional typologies of the female population of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, an analysis of designs for women's dresses of the 1920s was carried out. The parametric modeling of avatars of female conventional-typical figures of the considered period and the modern one has been carried out. Avatars were used for virtual fitting of a woman's dress based on the Art Deco prototype.
Keywords: Art Deco, historical costume, dimensional typology, artistic and constructive analysis, computer design, CAD

N.A. Sakharova
Digital Fashion - a new development trajectory for the fashion industry
DOI: 10.46418 / 0021-3489_2021_53_03_06
The paper presents the results of the analysis of modern trends in digital (digital) fashion and examples of its integration into industrial enterprises and the educational process. The principles of application of technologies of three-dimensional design of clothes for visualization of models are considered on the example of a historical women's dress of the 1960s. and analysis data of constructive adaptation of an authentic cut pattern to the original artistic solution.
Keywords: digital fashion, integration, industrial production, digital model, render, trends, digital design

S.C. Zhang, V.E. Kuzmichev
Parameterization of historical patterns by means of 3d visualization software
DOI: 10.46418 / 0021-3489_2021_53_03_07
The application of computer programs of three-dimensional visualization for the study of drawings of historical costume complexes and the development of digital databases for obtaining virtual twins in the process of reconstruction is shown. Based on a quantitative analysis of men's wardrobe and drawings of designs for men's coats of the late 19th - early 20th centuries. algorithms for generating a virtual double of a historical male figure, finding the thickness of a package of materials for worn clothes and the values of constructive increments to the dimensional characteristics of figures have been developed. The constructive additions to the dimensional characteristics used to construct the drawings of the coat have been developed, and an algorithm has been proposed for their recalculation when reconstructing the coat to modern figures of other dimensional options. The conditions for obtaining realistic virtual counterparts of historical men's coats have been established.
Keywords: men's coat, virtual double, fabrics, thickness, constructive increase, reconstruction, historical costume complex

O.I. Denisova
Formulation of requirements to the draft uniform from the position of the theory of fashion with the appliance of probability and cause-effective reasons
DOI: 10.46418 / 0021-3489_2021_53_03_08
Based on the provisions of fashion theory using the mathematical apparatus of Bayesian networks, a semantic map has been developed that allows us to identify the weak and strong sides of design solutions for uniforms from the standpoint of the needs of persons participating in the dress code and assess the likelihood of the appearance of a semantic ambiguity in the uniform that distorts the message of the company, transmitted through the non-verbal language of the suit.
Keywords: dress code, ambivalence, technology, semantic web, probabilistic reasoning

E.Yu. Dolgova, M.A. Chizhik, Zh.M. Naimankhanova, T.M. Ivantsova
Formation of a training sample for creating digital doubles of textile materials
DOI: 10.46418 / 0021-3489_2021_53_03_09
The article deals with the creation of digital twins of textile materials. An approach to the development of a technical solution is proposed that allows identification, selection of textile materials, and prediction of their properties on-line by digital twins. Machine learning is used as a method for solving the problem. A sample of materials was formed, their characteristics and properties were determined in order to train the algorithm. The tasks of further development are set, including the possibility of restructuring the architecture of algorithms for various research purposes.
Keywords: textile materials, digital twin, machine learning, training sample, tactile properties, neck, ink.

O.A. Moskalyuk, E.S. Tsobkallo, E.G. Grigorieva
Development of carbon nanotube modified filaments for heated textiles

TECHNOLOGY OF MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS OF TEXTILE AND LIGHT INDUSTRY

I.A. Gadzhibekova
Product properties of swimming ovens from dagestan breeds sheep
DOI: 10.46418 / 0021-3489_2021_53_03_10
The article presents the characteristics and indicators of the main properties of sheepskin coats. The properties of the hair and leather fabric of sheepskin fur coats from Dagestan sheep breeds have been investigated. The data on the average hair length, the content of various categories of hair in the wool of various sheep breeds, the characteristics of the guard and down hairs of the wool of the Dagestan sheep breeds in terms of fineness are given. Conclusions about the purpose of sheepskin of various Dagestan breeds for fur coat production are presented.
Keywords: sheepskin coat, wool, skin tissue, height, density, uniformity of density over the area of the skin, equalization of wool fibers in thickness

I.N. Tyurin, S.V. Kudrinsky, A.G. Kuzmin, L.A. Sobolev, V.S. Belgorodsky
Designing the rotary mechanism of the body scan system
DOI: 10.46418 / 0021-3489_2021_53_03_11
The article is devoted to the development of the driving mechanism of the body scanner, the design features and the analysis of the form factors of the possible design of the device, and also the calculation of strength and rigidity is presented.
Keywords: 3D scanner, body scanner, anthropometry, scanning, digital twin, design, development, digitization

A.V. Ostrovskaya, I.I. Latfullin, R.R. Shagivalieva, A.I. Sapozhnikova
Improvement of the technology of processing rabbit skins by using an amino resin modified with isopropyl alcohol
DOI: 10.46418 / 0021-3489_2021_53_03_12
In this work, rabbit skins modified with urea-formaldehyde resin modified with isopropyl alcohol are considered as raw materials for fur production.
Keywords: fur, dermis, semi-finished product, raw materials, dressing, resin, rabbit, quality indicators, physical and mechanical indicators, welding temperature, porosity

M.A. Goncharova, E.E. Shirshov, S.A. Kolesnik, V.F. Bogdanov
Research of packages with incoherent composite insulation аt subzero temperatures
DOI: 10.46418 / 0021-3489_2021_53_03_13
On the basis of a study of the behavior of packages with different compositions of non-cohesive insulation under normal conditions, at low temperatures and under pressure, the indicators of their restoring ability were determined. The results show that composite fillers containing Down + wool (70/30) and Down + PP (70/30) in the indicated proportions can serve as an alternative substitute for natural down.
Keywords: incoherent composite insulation, garment bag, modulus of elasticity of compression, modulus of elasticity of recovery, rheological characteristics, normal conditions, low temperatures, pressure testing

N.V. Skobova, N.N. Yasinskaya, A.E. Danilenko, A.V. Sohova
Estimation of special properties of functional threads and knitted fabrics from them for forming multilayer shoe materials
DOI: 10.46418 / 0021-3489_2021_53_03_14
The modern textile market is being renewed by the production of synthetic yarns with new properties: antibacterial, antistatic, non-combustible, etc. OJSC "SvetlogorskKhimvolokno" (Republic of Belarus) has released a new line of special-purpose polyester yarns: microfilament (0.1-0.03 tex EN), with Quick Dry moisture control function. The article presents the results of a study of the properties of Quick Dry yarns and their behavior in knitted fabrics in order to identify functional properties and a possible field of application. The possibility of processing functional yarns into knitted fabrics for the inner lining layer during the formation of a multilayer material for footwear has been established.
Keywords: functional threads, hygienic properties, knitted fabrics, multilayer material

O.М. Ivanov, T.O. Imbirovsky, V.V. Beznosova, S.Yu. Ivanova
Increasing the efficiency of application of the infrared emitters for drying textile materials
DOI: 10.46418 / 0021-3489_2021_53_03_15
The work is devoted to the use of infrared radiation for heating and drying various materials. It is proposed to choose the operating mode of the emitter so that the maximum intensity falls on the wavelength of maximum absorption of the heated material. Methods of influencing the emitter wavelength by choosing its characteristics and applied voltage are considered.
Keywords: radiation, absorption, heated material, drying, wavelength

A.G. Kurenkova, S.V. Tatarov, E.P. Zazhigina
Development of the design of elements of shoe molding equipment using kinematically-formed surfaces. Message 1
DOI: 10.46418 / 0021-3489_2021_53_03_16
The specific spatial shape of the mold cavity of the tooling is rather difficult to describe mathematically. It directly depends on the shape patterns of the molded sole and is therefore built as a mirror-displayed surface on a formalized constructive basis, where a digital model of the last and ZTD of a semi-finished shoe are involved. In this regard, in order to solve the problem of digital design of the molding space of the tooling, the article considers a new method of forming the working surface of the mold using kinematically formed surfaces - the basic basis for the further development of digital design of corrugated elements of shoe injection molds.
Keywords: casting cavity, mold, kinematic surface, sole, digital block

E.F. Voznesensky, E.A. Karalin, A.V. Trofimov, D.D. Ziyangirov, Az.F.Gaisin, G.N. Kulevtsov, E.S. Nefediev
Formation of a catalytically active coating on glass textiles by vacuum-plasma methods
DOI: 10.46418 / 0021-3489_2021_53_03_17
A developed coating based on titanium and chromium is formed on the surface of the glass textile material by sequential processing in the plasma of a high-frequency induction discharge of reduced pressure and metallization by the method of magnetron sputtering. The catalytic activity of the obtained material with respect to n-hexane in the state of a supercritical fluid was investigated.
Keywords: glass textiles, glass fiber catalyst, high-frequency induction discharge, magnetron sputtering, PVD, titanium, chromium, n-hexane, supercritical fluid

O.I. Yakovleva, V.A. Khramchikhin, E.S. Sashina, T. Maniecki
Investigation of the filtering properties of needle-punched material from silkworm waste
DOI: 10.46418 / 0021-3489_2021_53_03_18
Silk-spinning waste is used to produce needle-punched nonwoven fabric. The pore sizes of the material, air permeability and dust-retaining ability have been determined.
Keywords: silk waste, non-woven material, pore size, air permeability, filtering properties

A.P. Mikhailovskaya, A.S. Grishchuk, I.V. Elokhin, S. S. Lysova
Sorption of tetraalkylammonium halides on cellulose crystallites
DOI: 10.46418 / 0021-3489_2021_53_03_19
The sorption of benzyldimethylhexadecylammonium chloride and trimethyldodecylammonium bromide by microcrystalline cellulose from aqueous solutions upon heating has been studied. The values of the thermodynamic affinity of tetraalkylammonium halides to cellulose were determined.
Keywords: quaternary ammonium compounds, cellulose, sorption, hydrolysis, spectroscopy

S.V. Kiselev, A.A. Kozlov, A.M. Litvinov, N.S. Klimova
A variant of mathematical modeling of the deformation properties of textile polymeric materials
The article considers a variant of mathematical modeling of the mechanical properties of textile polymer materials, on the basis of which the forecasting of deformation processes of varying complexity is carried out - from the processes of simple relaxation and simple creep to complex deformation-recovery processes and processes of reverse relaxation with alternating loading and unloading.
Keywords: mathematical modeling, deformation processes, textile polymeric materials, back relaxation processes, creep.

Р.S. Karabanov, V.A. Kharina, G.A. Borozdina
Modeling of the frictional interaction of the undercarriage of the soles with the support surface
DOI: 10.46418 / 0021-3489_2021_53_03_20
A model of the frictional interaction of the bottom of the shoe with a rough supporting surface is proposed. On the basis of the provisions on the theory of friction of solids, the analysis of the obtained regularities is carried out and the features of the frictional contact of sole materials of different elasticity with the supporting surface containing irregularities are revealed.
Keywords: sole materials, elastic modulus, support surface, roughness, sliding friction coefficient, frictional interaction

G.P. Rakhmatullina, E.A. Pankova, A.I. Sapozhnikova
Analysis of the domestic leather production market
DOI: 10.46418 / 0021-3489_2021_53_03_21
The analysis of Russian leather manufacturers by districts is carried out, their production volumes are indicated and the specific features of the manufactured nomenclature are highlighted.
Keywords: leather, production volumes, Russian enterprises

ART

N.V. Bekk, M.V. Taube, E.A. Leshukova, N.V. Tikhonova
Innovative integration of storage and handling functions in the Suitcase object
DOI: 10.46418 / 0021-3489_2021_53_03_22
The evolutionary stages of development of the construction and design of products for the carriage of luggage: suitcases are considered. The influence of technical progress on volumes, shapes, materials, ways of moving suitcases is shown. Sociological research was carried out among the population on the conditions of travel, preferences for items for the carriage of luggage, in relation to innovative solutions for the design of a suitcase. A new object is proposed that provides the integration of the functions of storage and movement of baggage. The concept of new opportunities, both for travel and for servicing the population in cities, is shown.
Keywords: Innovation, design, travel, suitcase, scooter, luggage

T.V. Belaya
Methods and forms of interaction between computer graphics and decorative and applied art
DOI: 10.46418 / 0021-3489_2021_53_03_23
The methods and forms of interaction between computer graphics and arts and crafts are considered and analyzed. An important scientific and practical direction in the development of computer technology is precisely computer graphics. The practice of using computer graphics in all types of art shows that it contributes to the formation of the creative and artistic abilities of beginners, to increase the knowledge, skills and abilities in using the artistic tools of experienced craftsmen, making them able to follow the development of new highly scientific technologies, adapting to new requirements. The data obtained in the framework of the presented scientific research based on the disclosure of the concept of "Computer graphics", its types and types, areas of application, properties of computer programs, methods and forms of interaction of computer graphics and decorative and applied art show us about the successful interaction of folk art with computer technologies. The processes of design, shaping with the use of computer technology are easy to use and edit, and the use of computer systems brings arts and crafts to a new large-scale level. The creativity of designers and folk art masters is combined into a single and productive action, not displacing man-made creativity, but, on the contrary, contributing to its modernization and effective functioning. The research nature of the article is expressed in the described views and conclusions based on the studied material. The conclusions of this scientific study contribute to the use of computer technologies in arts and crafts, which can only have a positive effect on complex and ambiguous production situations, help to successfully solve the problems of developing the creative component. The use of computer technology is one of the most important trajectories for the further development of arts and crafts in the modern world, which makes it possible to find new ideas, directions, technologies and means, as well as ways of transferring the created images.
Keywords: computer technology, computer graphics, arts and crafts, applied artist

N.G. Druzhinkina
Architectural and compositional decorative priorities of festive decoration of urban space
DOI: 10.46418 / 0021-3489_2021_53_03_24
This article examines the specifics of fireplaces and stairs as compositional dominants in the architecture of an individual modern home, design principles, plastic solutions in the interior. Historical examples and modern approaches, types and configurations of fireplaces and stairs are studied.
Keywords: fireplaces, stairs, architecture, interior, design.

M.V. Taube, N.V. Bekk, N.V. Tikhonova
Prerequisites of ecological logic and their visualization in the jewelry collection
DOI: 10.46418 / 0021-3489_2021_53_03_25
The modern trend for environmentally friendly things is becoming a marketing tool for promoting goods. Buyers are most often accustomed to thinking linearly when buying goods, dividing the world into “so right” and “so wrong” in large categories of goods, without highlighting each product separately and without assessing all the consequences of the choice. Based on the analysis of such a consumer approach, the design concept of Eco-category products was developed and, within the framework of the concept, a collection of jewelry made from recycled materials.
Keywords: design, decoration, ecology, marketing, logic