МАТЕРИАЛЫ МЕЖДУНАРОДНОЙ НАУЧНО-ТЕХНИЧЕСКОЙ КОНФЕРЕНЦИИ LIGHT CONF 2021 «НАУКА-ТЕХНОЛОГИЯ-ПРИОЗВОДСТВО»

Метелева О.В., Бондаренко Л.И.
Разработка композиционного материала для проклеивания швов защитной одежды
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_01

Кольцова Т.Б., Цобкалло Е.С., Москалюк О.А.
Анализ закономерностей статического распределения прочности элементарных волокон полиамида-6
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_02

Зарецкая Г.П., Базаев Е.М., Привалов А.А., Лунина Е.В., Руднева Т.В., Смотрова С.А.
Цифровое моделирование 3D структур текстильных наполнителей для полимерных композиционных материалов с прогнозируемыми прочностными свойствами
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_03

Колесник С.А., Ширшов Е.Е., Бринк И.Ю., Богданов В.Ф.
Разработка способа получения несвязного двухкомпонентного утеплителя при производстве теплозащитной одежды и снаряжения
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_04

Ленько К.А., Ясинская Н.Н., Скобова Н.В., Лисовский Д.Л.
Влияние обработки микросиликоновыми эмульсиями на свойства хлопчатобумажных тканей в процессе заключительной умягчающей отделки
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_05

Дащенко Н.В., Киселев А.М.
Применение гидрофильных наноэмульсий для целенаправленного изменения свойств синтетических текстильных материалов
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_06

Шахмаров А.А., Вигелина О.А., Труевцев А.В.
Влияние состава пряжи и структуры переплетения на свойства трикотажа для активного отдыха
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_07

Копылов А.А., Петросова И.А., Андреева Е.Г.
Исследование конструктивных параметров одежды для проведения процедуры оценки антропометрического соответствия изделия фигуре
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_08

Романовский Р.С., Петросова И.А.
Разработка метода автоматизированного проектирования ассортиментных промышленных коллекций с учетом массовой кастомизации
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_09

Кукушкина В.С., Амосов Е.К., Лифанов А.А., Яковлева Н.В.
Роль трехмерного моделирования и аддитивных технологий в современном обувном производстве
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_10

Радченко О.В., Корнилова Н.Л., Овсянникова П.А., Шаммут Ю.А., Солодушенкова Т.С.
Разработка технологии изготовления льняной одежды совмещенной с биомодификацией тканей
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_11

Яковлева Н.В.
Проблемы производства и реализации обуви
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_12

ТЕХНОЛОГИЯ МАТЕРИАЛОВ И ИЗДЕЛИЙ ТЕКСТИЛЬНОЙ И ЛЕГКОЙ ПРОМЫШЛЕННОСТИ

Иванов О.М., Кассир И.А., Бабина Н.А.
Влияние электрического сопротивления ворса на процесс его нанесения на основу в технологии электрофлокирования
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_13

Алиева Е.Н., Москвина М.А.
Компьютерная 3D реконструкция внешней формы одежды с учетом удлинения и складкообразования виртуальных текстильных материалов
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_14

Баллыев С.Б., Островская А.В., Шарифуллин Ф.С.
Исследование влияния ультрафиолетового облучения на процесс жирового дубления шкуры верблюда
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_15

Сапожникова А.И., Гребенева Ю.С., Реусова Т.В., Гордеева Ю.Л.
Количественная характеристика блеска шкурок норки различных цветовых типов
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_16

Абдул Р.А., Григорьева Е.Г., Баранов А.Ю.
Исследования теплозащитных свойств трикотажа прессовых переплетений
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_17

Дянкова Т.Ю.
Электронные возможности прогнозирования колористического оформления термостойких волокон и материалов на их основе
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_18

Примаченко Б.М.
Неопределённость структуры и свойств тканей для армирования композиционных материалов
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_19

Асланова М.В., Третьякова А.Е., Сафонов В.В.
Мода и экология
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_20

Морозова И.И., Тимошина Ю.А., Тихонова Н.В., Вознесенский Э.Ф.
Исследование влияние способа нанесения клеевой композиции на газопроницаемость и пористость текстильных материалов методом газо-жидкостной порометрии
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_21

Переборова Н.В., Вагнер В.И., Козлов А.А., Киселев С.В.
Разработка математических моделей вязкоупругости полимерных текстильных материалов
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_22

ИСКУССТВОВЕДЕНИЕ

Алибекова М.И., Белгородский В.С., Андреева Е.Г.
Инновационные технологии в эскизном и художественном проектировании объёмных форм костюма
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_23

Вильчинская-Бутенко М.Э., Саван В.
Постмодернизм и арабская каллиграфия в пространстве города
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_24

Ковальчук А.С., Фуртай Ф.
Влияние живописных эскизов Льва Бакста на европейскую моду начала XX века
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_25

No. 2, 2021

MATERIALS OF THE INTERNATIONAL SCIENTIFIC AND TECHNICAL CONFERENCE LIGHT CONF 2021 "SCIENCE-TECHNOLOGY-PRODUCTION"

Meteleva O.V., Bondarenko L.I.
Development of composite material for sizing seams of protective clothing
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_01
The development of the materials assortment for garments and the improvement of their quality indicators should be taken into account in the development of modern methods for the garments production. The creation of self-adhesive film materials is relevant. The properties of these materials can be differentiated depending on the purpose of the products, the operating conditions and the properties of the materials being processed. It has been experimentally found that the wetting area increases when the actual contact area between the adhesive and the substrate increases and leads to an increase in adhesion interaction.
Keywords: Workwear, film material, latex, adhesive and non-adhesive layers, tackiness, roughness, wettability, adhesive strength.

Koltsova T.B., Tsobkallo E.S., Moskalyuk O.A.
Analysis of regularities of static strength distribution of polyamide-6 elementary fibers
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_02
Modern polymeric materials, including fibrous ones, have a variety of performance properties, among which mechanical properties are one of the most important. Basically, methods for studying the characteristics of mechanical properties are based on experimental approaches. Optimization of methods for studying the strength of materials, as the most important indicator of the mechanical properties of polymers, makes it possible to develop clearer recommendations for increasing their strength. Among the methods for assessing the strength of polymeric materials, a rather promising direction, based on statistical approaches, stands out.
Keywords: polyamide - 6, polymer materials, assessment methods, polymer properties

Zaretskaya G.P., Bazaev E.M., Privalov A.A., Lunina E.V., Rudneva T.V., Smotrova S.A., Shanygin A.N.
Digital modeling of 3d structures of textile fillers for pcm with predicted strength properties
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_03
The article presents the developed methods of 3D preforms modeling for the high-load aircraft elements manufacture of polymer composite materials, which allow predicting the strength properties, including their zonal distribution, at the stage of computer-aided design of the textile fillers structure. The reported study was funded by RFBR, project number 19-29-13044.
Keywords: textile fillers for PCM, modeling of preform structure, textile sheels

Kolesnik S.A., Shirshov E.E., Brink I.Yu., Bogdanov V.F.
Development of a method for obtaining an unconnected two-component insulation in the production of heat protective clothing and equipment
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_04
A method is proposed for obtaining a disconnected composite two-component insulation made from natural fluff and shredded synthetic or woolen fibers, which makes it possible to quickly produce insulation with specified elasticity and bulk properties by simplifying and combining all stages of the technological process, localizing production and using an disconnected composite material as a fibrous component wool or synthetic yarn with specified fiber twist parameters.
Keywords: method, incoherent composite insulation, down, fiber, technological process, fibrous component, yarn

Lenko K.A., Jasinskaja N.N., Skobova N.V., Lisovskij D.L.
The influence of treatment with microsilicone emulsions on the properties of cotton fabrics in the process of final softening finishing
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_05
Research has been carried out on softening cotton fabric for bedding in order to determine the effect of processing with microsilicone emulsions from Ferment LLC (Belarus) on the physical, mechanical and hygienic properties of textile material, as well as to determine the optimal concentration of drugs in the final softening finishing process.
Keywords: softening, drape coefficient, capillarity, textile auxiliaries

Dashchenko N.V., Kiselev A.M.
Application of hydrophilic nanoemulsions to purposefully change the properties of synthetic textile materials
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_06
The process of modification of synthetic textile materials by hydrophilic amino-organosilicon nanoemulsions is studied. The preparations and treatment regime of polyester and polyamide fab-rics with the formation of nanocoats are recommended for the purpose of regulating the hydro-philic-lipophilic properties of the fibrous material and giving the textile products a complex of im-proved consumer and special properties.
Keywords: synthetic material, hydrophilic nanoemulsion, modification, nanocoating, hydro-philic-lipophilic properties, finishing effects

Shahmarov A.A., Vigelina O.A., Truevtsev A.V.
The influence of yarn and fabric structure on the properties of knitwear for active recreation
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_07
The article is devoted to the evaluation of the properties of knitwear for sportswear using Milano Rib, Rib 1+1 and plain knitted fabric from cotton, PAN and wool yarn. The data obtained indicate that elongation air-transperence and water-inclusion of double-knitted knits is determined by the structure of the fabric.
Keywords: Milano Rib, Rib 1+1, plain knitted fabric, sports knitwear

Kopylov A.A., Petrosova I.A., Andreeva E.G.
Study of the design parameters of clothing for the procedure of evaluating the anthropometric conformity of the product to the figure
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_08
With the determination of the correct size of clothing, many buyers have difficulties. The results of studies conducted in different countries have shown that consumers are often not satisfied with the size of the purchased product, since when choosing they reduce their size by at least one, because they are sure that the girth of the main size characteristics and body weight correspond to a smaller size than they wear. The analysis of modern software products shows that modern technologies are developing in the field of retail sales of clothing. Existing systems to some extent allow you to visualize the range of clothing sold and determine the most suitable items for the consumer, but the problem of determining the correct size of clothing is quite acute. The authors conducted a study of the criteria for assessing the conformity of the finished shirt to the figure of the consumer. A list of dimensional features, a list of design parameters, and intervals of changes are formulated, with the help of which a reasonable comparison of the size of the figure, structures, and a three-dimensional avatar is made. Qualitative assessment is carried out by means of a survey of experts, quantitative and quantitative assessment by obtaining data from the consumer about the convenience or inconvenience of using the product. The obtained results of the study are formed into a database for evaluating the anthropometric correspondence of the size of the figure to the size of the finished clothing, which will reduce the time for the consumer to choose clothes from the store's assortment and increase consumer satisfaction when buying clothing products through online stores.
Keywords: three-dimensional scanning, anthropometric matching, clothing size, product fit estimation

Romanovsky R.S., Petrosova I.A.
Development of a method for automated design of assortment industrial collections taking into account mass customization
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_09
The subject of research is clothing developed according to individual design chosen by a consumer. The application of the concept of mass customization has become one of the most high-demanded areas of development in light industry. Manufacturers invest heavily in the development of software products, with the help of which the consumer can independently develop an individual design of clothes. An approach where there is an information, which consists of customers' preferences, dimensional characteristics, shape and body type in specially created databases, which are used when it is necessary to help to create clothing products that are best suited to the consumer in size and design, is proposed.
Keywords: clothing design, mass customization, databases, individual clothing design

Kukushkina V.S., Amosov E.K., Lifanov A.A., YAkovleva N.V.
The role of 3D modeling and additive technologies in modern shoe manufacturing
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_10
The footwear industry in Russia is dependent on imported developments, equipment, technologies, shoe components. To increase the competitiveness of the industry, domestic developments are required. 3D modeling and additive technologies facilitate efficient development. The introduction of digital technologies at all stages from development to production has a significant impact on the development of the footwear industry. Combining the efforts and capabilities of specialists in related industries, with the support of state authorities, can ensure the dynamic, progressive development of the industry.
Keywords: shoe industry, shoe industry, three-dimensional modeling, 3D model, sole, heel, additive technologies, 3D printing

Radchenko O.V., Kornilova N.L., Ovsyannikova P.A., Shammut Y.A., Solodushenkova T.S.
Development of a technology for manufacturing linen clothes combined with biomodification of fabrics
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_11
The authors proposed a technology for making linen clothes, combined with biomodification of fabric with cellulase preparations in a washing unit, combined with mechanical influences. The results of fabric stiffness reduction when using different processing modes are presented. It is shown that the combination of modes makes it possible to obtain sewing products from non-softened linen fabric with a given degree of softness and plasticity, depending on the projected volumetric-silhouette shape of the product.
Keywords: linen fabrics, stiffness index, biochemical softening, volume shape and degree of plasticity of the product, sewing technology

Yakovleva N.V.
Problems of production and sale of shoes
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_12
The article deals with the problems of modern footwear production. The problems of buyers when choosing shoes offline and online are indicated. An example and the results of research work on the combination of models of chain elements: STOP – LAST – VFO – STOP are given. A plan for coordinating the actions of shoe manufacturers and sellers is proposed.
Keywords: Foot, shoe last, inner shoe shape, model, sales, coordination

TECHNOLOGY OF MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS OF TEXTILE AND LIGHT INDUSTRY

Ivanov O.M., Kassir I.A., Babina N.A.
The influence of the electrical resistance of the pile on the process of applying it to the base in electroflocking technology
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_13
The work is devoted to a comparison of two options for applying pile in electroflocking technology. The influence of the electrical resistance of the pile on the technological characteristics that determine the dynamics of the process of forming fleece cover is studied. Based on the studies, models were obtained that describe the relationship between the time constant and the limiting density of pile cover and the electrical resistance of the pile. The effect of the voltage electric field  on the efficiency of the studied flocking options was evaluated.
Keywords: flocking process, pile, density of the pile cover, electrical resistance of the pile, flock, process time constant

Alieva E.N., Moskvina M.A.
Computer 3D reconstruction of clothing according to stretchability and draping of virtual textile materials
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_14
The article analyses the influence of the physical and mechanical properties of virtual textile materials on parameters of material’s folds, the position of anthropometric levels and the silhouette shape of 3D models of clothing was determined. Equations of logarithmic dependence were proposed to predict the displacement of anthropometric levels depending on the value of "Stretch"s parameter. The results of the study increase the accuracy of computer simulations and 3D models of clothes, which are widely demanded in the clothing industry, computer graphics and museums.
Keywords: computer simulations, 3D modeling, virtual try-on, computer-aided design, wedding dresses

Ballyev S.B., Ostrovskaya A.V., Sharifullin F.S.
Investigation of the effect of ultraviolet radiation on the process of fat tanning of camel skin
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_15
The article discusses the features of preparing a tanning agent for use in the process of fat tanning. The chemistry of the processes of lipid peroxidation is described, the reactions of interaction of fish oil (fat tanning agent) with ultraviolet light are given. The results of the study of the effect of ultraviolet irradiation of fat tanning agent on the fat tanning process of camel skins are presented. The method of treatment of fat tanning agent with ultraviolet light has been substantiated. Conclusions are made about the effect of pretreatment of the fat tanning agent with ultraviolet light on the physical and mechanical properties of the obtained semi-finished product.
Keywords: semi-finished product, ultraviolet irradiation, ultraviolet irradiation, fat tanning, fats, camel skin, fat oxidation, peroxide oxidation

Sapozhnikova A.I., Grebeneva Yu.S., Reusova T.V., Gordeeva Yu.L.
Quantitative characteristics of the gloss of mink skins of various color types
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_16
The results of studies devoted to the quantitative assessment of the gloss of mink skins of different color types are presented. The content of the terms "type of gloss" and "degree of gloss" has been clarified. Using an experimental gloss meter, an instrumental assessment of the gloss of mink skins of various color types was carried out, which makes it possible to exclude the dependence of the light flux reflected by the fur surface on the orientation of the source and receiver planes relative to the direction of hair growth and on the degree of lightness of the fur surface. The quantitative indicators of the gloss of mink skins of various color types were studied and an adequate statistical model was selected that characterizes the general nature of the relationship between the gloss indicators and the geometric parameters of the hair.
Keywords: optical and geometric properties, hairline, quantitative characteristics, gloss, color type, mink

Abdul R.A., Grigorieva E.G., Baranov A.Yu.
Investigations of the heat-shielding properties of knitted fabrics of press weaves
DOI: 10.46418 / 0021-3489_2021_52_02_17
In this work, we measured the thicknesses of knitted fabrics of different weaves (eraser 1 + 1, half-fang, fang), produced from various types of raw materials (cotton yarn, PAN, half-wool) at different pressures. Thickness fabric is one of the important factors that plays a large role in influencing the heat-shielding properties and comfort of knitted fabrics.
Keywords: jersey, thickness, press weave, heat-shielding properties

Diankova T. Yu.
Electronic possibilities for predicting the color design of heat-resistant fibers and materials based on them
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_18
The physicochemical properties of aromatic polyamides and polyimides in the basis of textile materials are investigated. It is noted that Russian heat-resistant fibers and threads subjected to coloristic finishing are characterized by a high level of functional properties. The possibilities of coloristic design are expanded due to the use of organic and mineral coloring substances in the mixture at various stages of polymer processing and the use of thermal transfer printing on pre-approved canvases.
Keywords: heat-resistant fabric, high-strength fiber, polyamide thread, aramid fabrics aramid materials, preparation, dyeing, printing, final finishing of textiles

Primachenko B. M.
Uncertainty structure and properties of fabrics for reinforcement of composite materials
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_19
In the work the influence of uncertainty of the structure and properties of carbon and polypropylene threads on the uncertainty of the structure and properties of fabrics used for re-inforcement of polymeric materials has been investigated. The obtained results show a signifi-can’t dependence of the uncertainty of the structure and properties of carbon and polypropylene fabrics from the uncertainty of the structure and properties of threads.
Keywords: threads, fabrics, structure, mechanical properties, composite materials

Aslanova M.V., Tretyakova A.E., Safonov V.V.
Fashion and ecology
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_20
The paper examines the environmental problems associated with textile production and the increasing consumption of textiles, with a constant shift in fashion trends, which negatively affects the environment.
Keywords: ecology, fashion, consumerism, textiles, clothing

Morozova I. I., Timoshina Y.A., Tikhonova N. V., Voznesensky E.F.
Investigation of the influence of the method of applying the adhesive composition on the gas permeability and porosity of textile materials by the method of gas-liquid porometry
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_21
Filtering and sorbing textile materials are in high demand in the development of special clothing and personal protective equipment against toxic gases and aerosols. These materials are woven or non-woven fabric with a dispersed sorbent fixed by means of an adhesive composition. To ensure the required performance properties, the combined material must, along with a high sorption capacity, have sufficient gas permeability. The values of gas permeability and porosity of a textile material were investigated by the method of gas-liquid porometry when using different methods of applying an adhesive composition.
Keywords: gas permeability, textile material, adhesive compositions, filtering-sorbing materials, gas-liquid porometry

Pereborova N.V., Wagner V.I., Kozlov A.A., Kiselev S.V.
Development of mathematical models of viscosity of polymer textile materials
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_22
The functional and operational properties of polymeric textile materials are influenced by various factors, including: temperature effects, the influence of humidity, the levels and duration of mechanical influences, and many others. For a comparative analysis and prediction of these properties, it is necessary to develop a mathematical model based on a physically substantiated analytical description of these influences.
Keywords: mathematical modeling, deformation processes, textile polymer materials, relaxation, creep, viscoelasticity

ART

Alibekova M.I., Belgorodskij V.S., Andreeva E.G.
Innovative technologies in sketch and artistic design of voluminous costume forms
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_23
The speed of modern technology today is ahead of wildest fantasies. New materials and innovative technologies determine the reorientation of the industry at the stage of artistic sketch development, open horizons for new opportunities in the search for a new form. Consumer preferences and expectations are increasingly becoming a benchmark for designers who are solving specific tasks that contribute to further increase sales of design developments.
Keywords: technology, innovation, sketch, clothing, industry, design, fashion, designer, consumer

Vilchinskaya-Butenko M.E., Savan W.
Postmodernism and Arabic calligraphy in the city space
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_24
The authors consider calligraffiti as an Arab form of cultural appropriation of a globalized urban art form of Western origin. The points of intersection of Arabic calligraphy and Western graffiti are explained from the standpoint of the confrontation of traditionalism and postmodern ideas on the example of theoretical studies and the work of artists Hassan Massoudi, eL Seed, Blouzaat group, etc. It is noted that the fusion of street art and Arabic calligraphy is a vivid example of the hybridization of forms and genres that, going beyond traditionalism, bring the traditions of Arab and Islamic art to the world, combine elite and popular culture, integrate into commodity production and promote cultural polyphonism within the framework of the "global village" phenomenon.
Keywords: postmodernism, Arabic calligraphy, calligraffiti, street art, urban art

Kovalchuk A.S., Furtay F.
The influence of lev bakst's pictorial sketches on european fashion at the beginning of the xx century
DOI: 10.46418/0021-3489_2021_52_02_25
One of the stages of this work is the analysis of the influence of the sketches of costumes and scenery by Lev Bakst on the European fashion of the beginning of the XX century. The ballets "Cleopatra" and "Scheherazade" aroused great interest among Parisians and Parisian fashion houses, which led to new trends and a new style in clothing and interior design. The design of theatrical performances was for Lev Bakst the brightest page in his life. Especially admired are the sketches of costumes, which have become independent graphic works. His most interesting works were associated with ballet and opera productions of the "Russian Seasons" in Paris in 1907-1914. He created a huge number of sketches of fabrics, clothing, shoes and interiors. Lev Samoilovich Bakst is the founder of the "orient" style in the design and fashion of the XX century.
Keywords: Lev Bakst, sketch, scenery, style, fashion, design, art nouveau, artist.